I LIKE the chutzpah of a restaurant titling itself Impress. Of course, it failed to. That was one of three curry house incarnations (or should that be reincarnations?) of the former Wesleyan Chapel on Beech Road, Chorlton. Where once stood Amaya and later Kulsumah A La Carte – oh yes and a century ago many an itinerant preacherman – you now find Mish Mash, another restaurant name that’s a hostage to fortune.
Whether the kitchen finds its own focus time will tell
A website that’s in a rudimentary state of development signalled a degree of unpreparedness about a place that’s obviously a labour of love for owner James Plant, who has spent his career managing the ventures of others. The immediate wobble was the online booking mechanism not working. Combined with the absence of a telephone number on the site or a menu and it felt, well, a bit of a mish mash. Still I persevered, encouraged by social media enthusiasm for the ‘soft launch’.
Mish MashEspecially encouraging was meat supplier, Chorlton’s Prince among Butchers, Lee Frost. Researching the chapel and the area I was fascinated by this historical footnote: “Bull-baiting was introduced into Britain around the year 1209 and it remained active in Chorlton Green until it was made illegal in 1835. It had already been abandoned in most parts of the country.”
It’s beyond fanciful to believe the Frost dynasty was built on the carcasses of baited bulls, but Chorlton was certainly a wilder place in the past and appetites were heartier. What the burly baiters would have made of Mish Mash’s Mojito Chicken (£14) I’m not quite sure. It had been flagged up as a signature dish, but in truth was just an odd scrawl. In combination with wild rice, roast red peppers and jalapeno salsa it’s the kind of dish that populates easy-to-make spicy recipe websites. A piece of flatbread sat like an awkward intruder on the side.
Mojito ChickenAt first bite fowl dowsed in sweet, minty juice didn’t jar. Then it did. Stodgy turtle beans soaked with the cocktail liquor didn’t help. It yelled out for a bitter contrast – chicory or cavallo nero. My companion’s 10z 28 day-age ribeye (£20) was well-marbled and chewy in a good way. Medium rare had been asked for; it leaned more towards the medium, but certainly redeemed the chicken.
Earlier large steamed mussels (£6.50, main image) were faultless in a cream and cider sauce; a fellow starter of chunky smoked salmon (£7) with rye bread and radish was advertised as coming with an Earl Grey dressing. This was a tea bag in a pot. Poured over the fish it barely scented it.
Early fans of Mish Mash have eulogised puddings such as the chocolate and cherry pot with vanilla cream. We passed. It looked alarmingly large and we faced a trek back to the Metrolink, so I’ll taste it another time. Return I will when the place is really ready. There’s lots to like in the drinks offering and the arty refit.
The Earl Grey dressing - a teapot
Mish MashOur choice of a £28 Kiwi Pinot Noir, governed by the steak/rummy chicken for £28 was a bad one – it was soupy and short. A bolder move would have been to order one of the English wines he stocks. From an adventurous beer list Runaway and First Chop stand out and cocktails look interesting – perfect for the outside terrace set back from the road.
The 60-cover interior is an elegant revelation after its recent history, designer Michael Maddocks making the most of a dramatic space with pendulous lighting and striking wall art. There are films on permanent projection on the wall, which is a bit of a cliche, but in general, it’s a charming place to hang out. Service was friendly but unfocused (and I found it odd giving my email address, so they could mail me the receipt).
Whether the kitchen finds its own focus time will tell. Chorlton itself has rarely managed to sustain a serious restaurant culture. The current pick are both neighbours of Mish Mash – Parlour for its rare roasts and San Juan for superb tapas. Elsewhere the cosy pattern is often of a bar being all things to all hipsters. I sense that young Mr Plant, who worked for Jamie Oliver, may prove more groundbreaking once the initial wobbles have subsided.
Take heed, though, of John Wesley’s words: “Light yourself on fire with passion and people will come from miles to watch you burn.”
You can follow Neil Sowerby on Twitter @AntonEgoManc
Mish Mash, 133 Beech Road, Chorlton, Manchester, M21 9EQ.
Rating: 12/20 (remember venues are rated against the best examples of their type - see box below)
Food: 6/10 (mussels 7, smoked salmon 6, rib-eye 7, mojito chicken 4)
Service: 2/5 (one point docked because of website)
Ambience: 4/5
