Gordo gives the lowdown on the first of The MUSU Collection
Vinnie and Marius conceived MUSU before Covid and it was during that tumultuous period that their high-end contemporary Japanese restaurant was born; an old money, sixties-style Tokyo experience with a murmuring quality and ingredients sourced, cooked and finished to Japanese Michelin-starred standards. Within a short space of time, it became critically acclaimed.
But that wasn’t enough for this delightful pair of rough diamonds. Having spent four years on the project they decided to close and restyle. They fine-tuned the ground floor, turning it into the first of three new iterations of their Japanese dream. The remaining two will be born this time next year.
The first born is KAJI. It’s the Japanese word for fire, and in restaurant terms describes establishments that are expert in cooking with open flames, the smoke from several different woods all driving texture and flavour.
I had the honour of being the first to try some of the new dishes delivered by the chef patron, and old pal, Steve Smith. The scallop blew me away. Hand dived, fresh and Scottish, roasted and finished on one side atop a near-400kg bespoke-built grill, it was licked by a flame, kissed by the smoke of apple wood embers, and drizzled with a spoonful of sea urchin and espelette pepper butter. A squeeze of citrus puts the final tickle on one of the best scallop dishes I’ve ever had.
The following night, Vinnie and Marius invited the press to a full dinner. The atmosphere, the deep reds and lacquered blacks, the heat and smoke from the grills, the sighs, the oohs and aahs, the bubbly conversation and an energetic, friendly service made for one of the most memorable dinners in ages.
If you’re more new money and feel food isn’t the centre of your dining experience, preferring a photoshoot in the loos, then stick to The Ivy Asia. If you’re old money and understand, or are open to learning about true Japanese dishes and techniques, then KAJI is for you.
Support this Mancunian-owned gaff where you can spend anything from £30 to £300. It’s exquisite.
Here’s a sneak peek at some of the dishes at KAJI
To book a table visit the KAJI website.
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