Megan Mcardle asks if those stuggling financially are being priced out of dressing fashionably
“There’s definitely a danger of pricing people out; it comes hand in hand with the cost of business,” says Will Hall from Blue Rinse, the vintage and re-worked clothes shop on the Northern Quarter's Oldham Street.
The attitude surrounding going to charity shops has changed drastically in recent years. Once seen as a second-rate way to buy outdated clothes only your grandparents might think are cool, the social stigma of 'Your mum goes to charity shops' has disappeared, says Annene Strachan, 36, from Oxfam Didsbury. “Now it’s like, 'Of course you shop at a charity shop.'"
Charity shops have long been linked to those on a lower income, but now young people are shaping the charity shop scene, either by creating their own second-hand markets a click away, on platforms such as Vinted or Depop, or by posting TikTok videos bragging about their couple-quid find.
Today, charity shops are the go-to place for finding unique clothing no one else owns, making its allure no surprise. People seem to be making a full 180 away from mainstream fast-fashion sites like Shein and instead are searching through donation bins to find a one-in-a-million item. When you finally find something worthy it feels so rewarding, creating a new kind of shopping experience where you almost feel as though you’ve earned your purchase, leaving satisfied without the buyer’s guilt experienced alongside fast fashion.
Naturally, the practice of fast fashion feels ethically wrong, with environmental news website Earth.org claiming that of the 100 billion garments produced each year, 92 million tonnes end up in landfills.
“Gen Z are more conscientious [of that],” says Annene. It’s easy to justify a purchase from a charity shop with a simple thought, echoed by Pauline, 61: "I think charity shops being trendy is a good thing - it's better than them going to landfill." You can also argue ‘It’s going to charity anyway’. You even feel as though it could be your good deed of the day.
But this is not the only reason for fast fashion's loss in appeal. For others, it’s as simple as it not looking good; feeling cheap, mass-produced and having a fake plastic feel. It misses a certain exclusive, one of a kind feel which can be found in vintage. There's a level of nostalgia for happier times to be found in vintage where quality felt like the priority of the retailer. Vintage is a romanticised idealisation of the past where things felt simpler and more authentic.
As vintage fashion grows in popularity, students and young people have flocked to charity shops as an affordable way to refresh their wardrobes, making them the go-to place for budget-friendly fashion. But is it really as budget friendly as we are being made to believe?
Niche is the new norm! People are focusing back on their own identity through clothing, finding more extravagant, one-of-a-kind pieces that set them apart. Reverting back to these niche items of clothes is a way to establish an individuality that isn’t offered through high street retailers hammering out duplicate garments on overdrive.
Gen Z is a new breed of informed consumer, researching the brands they are buying into like internet detectives, unwilling to separate a company’s product from its morals. Unlike previous generations, it seems they believe buying from a brand means supporting its ethics - and brands can no longer stay silent on important matters without raising the possibilty of cancellation. Consumerism has transformed into a type of activism where we have the power not to buy into brands we don’t agree with.
We’ve seen this play out with brands like Djerf Avenue, where allegations of staff mistreatment tarnished its reputation and a cult following vanished overnight, with Matilda Djerf releasing an apology. Another incident revealed Shein paid their workers 3p per garment. Meanwhile, charity shops offer a moral alternative: sustainability, ethical consumerism and the added bonus of supporting charitable causes.
Fashion student, Brooke, 21, shares her experience. “As a fashion student we’re always looking at trends shaping the industry, in 2025 noticing the appeal of nostalgia in fashion. For myself, I love to shop sustainably, trying hard to minimise environmental impact of mass-produced clothing. This has become harder for me as I am trying to find identity in unique pieces of clothing second hand, but with the rise of charity shop prices in the city and the overload of ‘Depop girlies’ reselling vintage pieces for an insane price, it’s making it difficult for me to shop on a student budget.”
Aster Powell from Age UK echoes this trend: “A lot of younger people are coming in, looking for that second hand, thrifted look...a lot of Uni students.” This trend to buy from charity shops as a type of 'thrifted fashion' has in turn massively impacted the accessibly for those in need who rely on the ‘charity’ of charity shops, as Pauline says: "I don't believe they are accessible to those who need them because they are too dear for young families who also need to afford essentials."
Rising prices in charity shops are a hot topic, as Aster Powell explains. “I have a lot of people coming in asking if it’s even a charity shop because of the prices.” A clear example of customers' growing concerns of affordability. However, Powell adds, “Everything is generally more expensive.”
In the middle of a cost-of-living crisis, charity shops face a tough battle to keep things affordable while also making sure they raise enough money for the charity itself. Annene argues, “We have a duty to our doners to get the most we can out of their donations because they're giving to our charity.” This in turn raises the question: is it more important for charity shops to provide affordable clothes for those in need or prioritise raising money for the charity itself?
Within this context the near-retail price feels much more understandable, with Annene clarifying how pricing very much depends on how affluent the area is and subsequently the cliental which follows, adding, “We’re in Didsbury, so I know I can sell things like White Stuff, Boden … middle-class white people stuff.” In other words, she alongside many others who are work in charity shops feel an obligation to the charities to re-sell 'yummy mummy' hand-me-downs for a price which feels meaningful and gives back to the cause.
But has this pricing mentality trickled down into other towns where people look to shop affordably and fashionably? It seems that many stores may now be catering to more well-off shoppers, providing them with more access to the vintage market. Meanwhile, those in lower income brackets are turning to cheap, mass-produced high street brands or online fast-fashion retailers.
Local Withington resident Cathall, 29, commented on this change. “The second-hand market is getting gentrified. A lot of places [charity shops] are turning into vintage shops, which is definitely taking away from those who need these shops more." She went on to explain that while sustainable, reselling has created a double-edged sword - benefiting some while making it harder for others to access affordable clothing.
In this new age, charity shops are getting savvier. They’ve caught onto the online entrepreneurs flipping second-hand goods, changing how the pricing in these shops works. Aster explained how many now research and price against online platforms such as eBay. Some even list items online themselves, running auctions alongside shop sales, catering to growing middle-class online buyers.
But isn’t this missing the true purpose of charity shops? They used to offer affordable fashion to local people who relied on them. Online buyers are willing to pay premium prices for items which usually don't reflect the true value. Why should those struggling financially be priced out of dressing fashionably? It feels like they are being excluded from spaces which was designed to help them. Pricing in charity shops shouldn't be based on what the people of Depop are willing to pay. "They're having an impact on our donations," said Annenne. "From a charity shop point of view, it means less coming to Oxfam's door."
"Depop has lost its original function," said Brooke. "Second hand clothing is no longer cheaper than fast fashion brands."
For example, take the peacoat – a microtrend piece currently having its moment. Just a few months ago, you could find one second hand for under a tenner. Now, they’re listed online for prices even reaching £60 with most selling for around £40. For what it is should they be being priced so highly?
Worn in the right way it seems anything can be the new ‘it’ piece for a generation fixating on every new micro trend. What does this mean for everyday in-store buyers? Pieces are priced based on what they find online and while they aim to keep pricing fair, not everyone wishes to pay £60 for a jacket which should be sold for a tenner, creating a much more exclusive second-hand market.
While the sudden surge in charity shopping has positively influenced the fashion industry by promoting more sustainable practices, this shift has also led to unintended consequences for low-income earners. There is no question that buying second-hand reduces landfill waste, however, as sustainability becomes mainstream, the rising demand for thrifted fashion has in turn driven up prices, making affordability and accessibility a rising concern for those these shops were originally intended to serve.
There is a certain irony in pricing out the very people charity shops were designed to help. It’s clear these shops’ main focus is to prioritise raising funds for the causes they support, which, while entirely valid, means that they are no longer untouched spaces where less affluent shoppers once found unique, affordable pieces. The second-hand market, once a blessing for low-income earners, has transformed into a space where people from all financial backgrounds compete to find thrifted gems.
Needless to say, this growing popularity is reflected in the rising prices – especially in the online second-hand market, where sellers have the freedom to set any price they choose. Those more affluent now are opting to thrift while also being able to afford steep re-seller prices, leaving those in need in competition with one another.
"A couple of years ago I used to be able to walk around my local charity shop and find so many good pieces for under £3 - now it's almost impossible," said Brooke. "I thought moving to Manchester that would be cheaper compared to the South, but that hasn't been my experience. Most days I got out looking for clothes I come home empty handed."
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