This week Bundobust have launched a new menu full of surprises
This week, Bundobust have launched a new menu full of surprises at their Liverpool Bold Street branch, seven days on from unleashing it on Leeds. Manchester gets a first taste on Monday, April 27. If you thought their Indian veggie street food meets craft beer formula had gone a little predictable, think again.
I certainly have done after a preview at their original site five minutes from Leeds Railway Station. Fond memories for me here. I was the first critic to review it when it opened 12 years ago (two years before they branched out to Piccadilly Manchester).
I can’t resist ordering old favourites that have been there from day one - the best Okra Fries around - dusted with kala namak and amchoor - and pomegranate-speckled Bhel Puri, puffed rice and samosa shards made tangy with tamarind, but how the hell to pick from 16 new dishes? The product, apparently of research trips around the UK’s Desi hotspots and reccie forays to India.
OK, the Pav Bhaji has featured in various guises over the years, but the latest might be the pick. Here it comes toasted and slathered in masala butter, to scoop up a spiced buttery mixed veg masala topped with fresh cucumber and onions.
It’s still all small plates, but with a certain heft to them. Take the latest variation on Paneer Tikka - two chunky skewers of barbecued halloumi-like Indian cheese, mushroom and pepper marinated in tikka yoghurt. With lashings of red pepper ketchup and spinach chutney to seal the deal.
Two further dishes were testimony to what co-founders Marko Husak and Mayur Patel are hailing as “the most Bundo version of Bundo and everything we wanted it to be when we first dreamt it up back in 2013. 2013!! Mad. More shareable, more new flavours, textures, more Too Much Spicy, just more Bundo.”
That certainly feels true of the Litti choka. My research tracks its popularity down to eastern Uttar Pradesh, western Bihar and certain Nepalese provinces. Why have they been hiding this secret so long? Basically, these are fire-roasted dough balls, made from black gram flour and filled with masala spiced crushed peas and raisins. As is tradition, they are served on a warm smoked aubergine and tomato spread.
With the Dhokla chaat we are on more familiar territory - Gujarat, where Mayur’s family hail from. Prashad, their Michelin Bib Gourmand vegan restaurant, is still going strong in the West Yorkshire hamlet of Drighlington and dhokla (or dokra) has been a signature snack there.
The inspiration for this Chaat is Khaman, a Gujarati steamed savoury cake made with a gram flour batter.
Bundo infuses the mix with ginger and turmeric and serves it with fresh onion tossed in a mustard tarka with a garlic, coconut and coriander chutney. The texture alone is sublime.
I had high hopes of the aforementioned Galouti Kebab, but it slipped my mind when ordering. As the Tyke Bundophiles were poured in to sample the new menu we decided against an extra request. Next time then for these Mughlai masala mushroom and rajma kebab patties on a puri with pickled red onion and spinach and mint chutney.
Washed down, of course, with a glass or two of Bundobust Brewery beers tailored to the spice – a Mango Lassi Dazzler pale ale or a Chacha Chai stout.
* Most dishes are priced between £6 and £8.50. A Combo for Two at £38.50 will save you £5.50, while a comprehensive Bundo Combo, feeding four to six hungry folk, costs £134, a saving of £20.50.
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