Promotion
IT wasn’t long into this tasting when word selection became difficult. Phenomenally rare, exceptionally aged, super-luxury, ultra-premium territory. No one in their right minds would usually have a tasting as superlatively hyperbolic as this, but as we were invited by Sasha Sváteq to experience the collection of premium spirits at Rosso, we weren’t going to demur.
If you have something to celebrate, if you want to impress, if you want to consider a possible once-in-a-lifetime experience, then they provide.
The list of drinks is at the bottom, along with their knee-weakening prices. The kick off, with the Herradura tequila was intriguing. I’m still not convinced by this succulent derived liquid, it is too petrolly for me, a little oily in the mouth. Sasha reckoned that it makes a perfect Old Fashioned, but we weren’t here for cocktails. But it is certainly a glass that should not be bolted, and thankfully there was no salt in sight.
Tequila without the slam
The second drink (we shared shots incidentally) was transporting. The 50 year old Appleton Jamaica Independence Reserve. It was astonishing. Limited to 800 bottles and retailing at £450 a glass, the nose was heavenly and the feel on the palate was sublime. Flavours blossomed on the tongue, hints of tropical fruits hidden behind rich molasses and warm littoral breeze…
You will have to forgive the purple passages, but we quickly became adjectivally challenged. It was an exceptionally well balanced glass, with none of the sugariness of the usual off-licence stuff. I savoured the colour and the finish and thought twice about surreptitiously licking the glass.
We then had a mere 40 year old, the Highland Park. I’m on more familiar ground with the single malts, but Highland Park is a protean whisky, one I’ve never been able to get a handle on. This however is an eye-opener. Gorse fires, burnt driftwood, an unexpected smoky edge to complement its 48.3% (the potency of the cask strength whiskies diminish naturally with age); close one’s eyes and you are walking on an Orkney beach.
Highland Park at 40
Following this was a John Walker blend, the Odyssey. Like many of the other hand-blown bottles, and nattily bespoke packaging, this one came in a case like a porthole befitting its nautical origins, where, once the bottle was safely locked in, could be spun round. The master blenders of these special expressions, and two of the half dozen we tasted have female master distillers, like to make a statement. And if you are using such rare and specially chosen barrels you may as well package it accordingly.
My companion simply said, well, they’re works of art… The John Walker was beyond smooth. I find some blends too bland, but this one, taken from only three distilleries was velvety, warming, like stroking a chinchilla by an Aga.
A smooth Chinchilla after enjoying a John Walker
And then, unbelievably, a surprise.
A New Yorker friend of mine has long mentioned that if one ever gets the chance to taste a Pappy van Winkle bourbon, rye or straight, one should hang the expense. Fortunately hanging was not a consideration here, and this Kentucky wonder was heart-stoppingly gorgeous. It is sometimes marketed as ‘the bourbon that billionaires can’t find’ as it is so rare (small batches in the main).
Sasha has six different expressions, and two bottles of the 23 year old. One of these was flown over from the States with the seller; it was probably cheaper than paying the insurance. And this is one of the reasons why Rosso are promoting ‘Il Ripiano’, or The Shelf, as their collection is known. Sasha has spent a few years assembling these glittering prizes; he reckons it rivals anything in Britain.
The Shelf
If you have something to celebrate, if you want to impress, if you want to consider a possible once-in-a-lifetime experience, then they are going to provide. The Appleton incidentally was opened for Rio Ferdinand and Ashley Young to celebrate the twentieth Man Utd title. If you have something similar to match that, or have recently had a PPI pay-out then this is one for you.
Appleton a snip at £450
We finished the evening with the Rémy Martin Louis XIII. It is a prince among cognacs (king among them is the Rare Cask expression – which they also have and a snip at £20,000 a bottle), a blend of eaux-de-vie from 40 to 100 years old, exclusively from the Champagne region. Sasha mentioned that it has an hour-long finish. I sat there, and my companion sat there, somewhat glassy-eyed in contemplation. The spicy, complex, aged, dense flavours slowly evaporating.
Drink, lovely drink
Sasha is a knowledgeable and forgivably enthusiastic host. The collection, and it is a collection, not just a bar, is extensive and of course starts at the more everyday level of Glenmorangies and Grey Gooses. Did we feel guilty at partaking of such largesse? Yup. Did we tell everyone we know that we had consumed 250 years’ worth of rare, specially selected, hand-crafted, bottled wonders? You betcha.
Herradurra Secección Suprema £25
Appleton 50 YO Jamaica Independence Reserve £450
Highland Park 40 YO Island Single Malt £150
John Walker & Sons Odyssey £75
Pappy van Winkle's 23 YO Family Reserve £200
Rémy Martin Louis XIII £120
Rosso, Restaurant & Bar, 43 Spring Gardens, City centre, M2 2BG
The Shelf
Rosso regal
That's the spirit
