THIS PLACE is a winner.
I can clearly see a FoH slotting into King Street
Friends of Ham (FoH) is a Ronaldo freekick from Leeds Central. It combines a voguish and comfortable interior with superb sourcing of food and a fine drinks offering. It exudes confidence and demands a return visit.
Given a central part of the menu is given over to platters this is odd. I groan when I visit yet another bar combining a racy cocktail and craft ale menu with prosaic platters of hams, cheese, sunblushed tomatoes and olives bought from Aldi and thrown at a plate from six feet away.
Comfortable in FoHThe platters, or as FoH calls them 'sharing boards', come in various guises including a British, Italian and Spanish version.
I went for the latter for £16.50 and was rewarded amongst other delights with a beautiful Jabugo ham, the pride of Spain, a cracking chorizo, and an astonishingly rich, full-on, Zamorano Gran Reserva sheep's cheese. The latter was a revelation, unpasteurised, very earthy, almost nutty, yet with a massive sweet chocolatety feel about it. Very different from the equally delicious but much more robust Manchego.
The cecina at £6 is cured dried beef and comes with a perfect complement of hazelnuts, pickled beetroot, sourdough fresh grated horseradish and again massive flavours. Sourcing is crucial to the success of FoH and they have buyers who clearly know their stuff. They also have a kitchen that combines the flavours to great effect, the hazelnuts and beetroot were vigorous but very welcome additions to the cecina's appeal.
Cecina
Alcachofas specialThe special of roasted artichokes and cheese (£4.95) was such an utter delight I ordered two portions. I could have had three. Four. I lived in Madrid many years ago and fell in love with artichokes - the word in Spanish is adorable, alcachofas. You can roll that around your mouth for a bit having fun with it. Artichokes are sturdy yet forgiving, like a fine funghi, they put your fingers into the earth, connect you with big Mother N. The combination with the cheese here was remarkable.
I'm getting a bit too Iberican perhaps, FoH does British very well. The smoked duck, cured beef, pork, veal, lemon and thyme salami, with the meats produced in Wales, looks a winner. There are exuberant British blue cheeses and Lancashires on the menu.
I had Albarino at £24 a bottle to wash down my food, keeping on the Spanish theme. But FoH doesn't stint on the booze. Alongside an entertaining winelist, there is a specialist beer bar's range of cask and keg beers filling an A3 card along with a choice of ciders.
I adored this place despite the occasionally sleepy service. FoH would drop smoothly into Manchester and Liverpool. I wish the Corn Exchange had courted FoH, it would have hugely added to what the reinvented 'food hall' will offer. As it is, I can clearly see a FoH slotting into King Street. It would create a fine use for the former Monsoon outlet. Wherever it might go Friends of Ham's formula will travel well.
You can follow Jonathan Schofield on Twitter @JonathSchofield or connect via Google+
All scored reviews are unannounced, impartial, paid for by Confidential and completely independent of any commerical relationship.
Friends of Ham, 4-8 New Station Street, Leeds, LS1 5DL. 0113 242 0275
Rating: 15.5/20 (remember venues are rated against the best examples of their type - see yellow box below)
Food: 8.5/10 (cecina 8, Spanish board 8.5, artichoke 9)
Service: 3/5
Ambience: 4/5
Inside Friends of Ham
