ONCE relegated to one half of Arndale Market, food is slowly creeping into the side previously dedicated to less edible services like hairdressing, shoe repairs and customised t-shirts. Labelled ‘South Side’, it’s indicative of the Market’s dedication to boosting its food offering: an unsurprising strategy, as successes like Alty Market and Stockport Foodie Friday (both MFDF award-winners) demonstrate our rediscovered hunger for local home-cooked fare. Of course, food and drink is undergoing a boom in general - just take a look at the ebullient march of restaurant openings - but ‘independent’ and ‘artisan’ are undoubtedly buzzwords when it comes to dining of late. 

Don’t miss the likes of braised pork cheeks slow-cooked in sherry sauce and traditional Spanish meatballs

La Bandera is a prime example of both, the type of trader Arndale Market will be seeking to build a reputation as a competitive food destination. The Canarian restaurant is well-known for attention to detail, focus on freshness and chef calibre - and its new street food outlet, which opened yesterday, shows no sign of letting up standards. Manned by Chef Alberto Ruiz Murillo - who worked under David Muñoz, owner of three Michelin stars, at his renowned StreetXO restaurant in Madrid - it will additionally be overseen by La Bandera Head Chefs Ruben de Villar Garcia and Juan Burgos Canton. 

La Bandera owner Yashin with Cervantes Manchester director Francisco at the launch La Bandera owner Yashin with Cervantes director Francisco at the soft launch on Wednesday

With a focus on small plates you can take away or enjoy in the shared seating area, the emphasis will be on authentic tapas and pinchos; with a daily-changing menu and all food freshly prepared onsite. Open 9am-6pm Monday to Sunday, the team promise the likes of Iberian pulled pork on paprika bread and fried squid with lemon alioli in a squid ink black brioche bun, plus a couple of sneaky wines or beer - specially curated of course - to accompany them. 

Other recent openings in the ‘South Side’ include Hong Thai (you can probably guess the cuisine here), Heaven (an Italian cafe serving coffee, desserts and snacks) and Claire’s Market Cafe. 

Claire’s in particular is an interesting example of bridging the down-to-earth roots of Arndale Markets - preserve of bulging burritos and discounted gold jewellery - with a dining style she calls ‘more refined.’ Whilst you can still expect the hot vimto and bacon butties she’s been serving up in her Smithfield transport cafe for yonks, visitors can also find the likes of venison loin with game ragu or a homemade blood orange cocktail. 

.Cooking up a storm at La Bandera, Arndale Markets
The personal touch: Claires crockery will feature some of her most loyal customersThe personal touch: Claire's crockery will feature some of her most loyal customers

As with La Bandera and other South Side compatriots, all produce is fresh (after all, there is a fishmongers, butchers and greengrocers just across the way) and everything from soups to sauces are made from scratch. While Claire’s job requires long hours and often 2am starts, it’s clear she loves what she does; one minute proffering a juicy piece of chicken cooked in her new mega oven (“fifteen minutes!”), the next enthusing about the bespoke protein meal she whipped up for a world champion boxer’s impromptu visit and her monthly supper clubs. 

A staple in her Smithfield cafe, these comprise five courses and cocktail for £30: again, a mixture of casual (BYOB) and refined (innovative ‘tasting menu’ type dishes). The fact Arndale Markets is willing to invest in hosting these outside of opening hours again indicates a commitment to upping the ante food-wise. 

So it’s ‘hola’ to La Bandera and no doubt some additional quality independents in the months to come, as the South Side continues its resurgence. Meantime don’t miss the likes of braised pork cheeks slow-cooked in sherry sauce and traditional Spanish meatballs on your next market meander. When they say ‘the best Spanish street food this side of Madrid’, they mean it... 

La Bandera At The Market: Spanish Street Food is open every day from 9am-6pm 

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