NAMED after Victorian architect Sir George Gilbert Scott who designed the local village church (and also the famous hotel attached to St Pancras station) George’s is a complete rebrand of what was ‘Milan’.
I guessed my husband had got over his disappointing pigeon experience. Between enthusiastic chewing I picked out the words ‘tangy’, ‘very appley’ and ‘super that’.
It is still co-owned by veteran footballer Ryan Giggs and having been fully refurbished, George’s softly opened in late December. It still has the faint whiff of fresh plaster, gleaming paintwork and shiny new staff.
Outside in Worsley
Decked out mostly in white and pale neutral colours, it’s a setting that really needs people to liven it up, which suits its intentions as more of a destination bar at weekends. There are a few decent design touches with modern light fittings, a monogrammed mosaic and the blingiest ladies loos I’ve ever seen with shiny golden sinks that look like they’d been cast from melted down C3POs.
Toilet bling
Heading up the kitchen is Andrew Parker previously of Harvey Nichols. He’s written a people-pleasing ‘Modern British’ menu involving a few native ingredients like suet and black pudding, with dips into Europe (Italian ham, Camembert) and Asia (sushi, oriental dressing with oysters). George’s also offer lazy weekend brunches, traditional afternoon teas, Sunday lunches and a well-thought out children’s menu.
I’d seen from their Twitter feed (@Georges_Worsley) that they make their own bread (£3.95) which that day included ‘baguette’, rosemary bread and focaccia accompanied by salted and smoked rosemary butter. My husband selflessly snaffled the lot declaring the rosemary bread especially some of the nicest he’d ever tasted.
Fine bread
I started with Jerusalem artichoke soup with poached egg and truffle oil (£4.95) which was a pretty and perfectly seasoned first course. The stand out starter on paper looked like the venison suet pudding (£6.45) which sat on a small hillock of creamed potatoes surrounded by a shallow moat of juniper scented gravy. The flavour volume needs adjusting as the venison filling was overpowered by a bullish smoked bacon, the suet in the pastry needs turning up and the unnecessary micro herb garnish frippery turned down, but it’s potentially a cracking dish.
Venison suet pud
As it was a Tweet from Franco from Solita who alerted me to the existence of George’s in the first place, I decided to order something ‘From The Grill’. When Franco is not choosing diet defying dishes for his own restaurant, selling Porsche knives or Chesterfield sofas, he also sells Inka grills which are a type of indoor BBQ oven. He’s recently installed one in the new kitchen at George’s.
My whole baked seabass with fennel, lemon and new potatoes (£15.95) was a decent size and moist on the inside but as you can see, it could have done with a bit more char for crispier skin. Perhaps they’ve not had time yet to read the instructions that came with their new Inka? My side order of kale (vegetable of the day £3.60) was fine but I begrudge having to pay another few quid to have some green vegetation incorporated into my main course.
Shiny sea bass
My husband’s main was a dish of highs and lows. He’d ordered local wood pigeon with white polenta, baby sprouts and game juices and at £17.90 expected to go a bit Henry VIII on a whole bird. Two small breasts arrived which I imagine is a bit like waiting for Marilyn Monroe to turn up and then opening the door to Dot Cotton.
I also suggest they might be pushing the boundaries of The Trade Descriptions Act by describing 5 single leaves as ‘baby sprouts’. As he assured me whilst polishing off my discarded fish head, my husband is no gastronomic wimp, but suspected the bird had been hanging around the kitchen too long like a wannabe WAG. It was a little too ‘high’ leaving him slightly green around the edges like the bits that remained un-eaten on his plate.
Pigeon
Classic apple tarte fine (£6.95) had a 20 minute prep time so we ordered some tea while we waited. I think the barman was responsible for choosing the tea supplier as he enthusiastically bounded over and poured with the ceremony good tea deserves. Half a big pot of excellent quality peppermint green tea served in colourful vintage China cups left me feeling not so denied in my own dessertlessness.
Tea Time
Flaming sorbetWhen the apple tart arrived, our waiter squirted the accompanying ‘flaming apple sorbet’ with a mysterious flammable liquid he called ‘Brand-synth’. From the noises he was making whilst eating, I guessed my husband had got over his disappointing pigeon experience. Between enthusiastic chewing I picked out the words ‘tangy’, ‘very appley’ and ‘super that’.
I hope I’ve illustrated the fact I can spot the difference between teething problems and problem areas because George’s is definitely one worth a try. I’ll definitely be back to try amongst other things that afternoon tea and a trough of that amazing homemade bread.
You can follow Deanna Thomas on Twitter @DeannaThomas
ALL SCORED CONFIDENTIAL REVIEWS ARE IMPARTIAL AND PAID FOR BY THE MAGAZINE.
George’s Dining Room & Bar, 17-21 Barton Road, Worsley, M28 2PD. 0161 794 5444
Rating: 15/20
Food 7.5/10 (bread 9, soup 9, venison pud 7, sea bass 8, pigeon 5, apple tart 8)
Ambience 3.5/5
Service 4/5
George's beige interior
George's bar area
