RIGHT. Now we're getting somewhere. After eighteen months and a near 25 million knicker kick up the fundament, Manchester's remodelled Grade II-listed Corn Exchange is finally beginning to kick back to life following an IRA blast and a woeful stint in retail.
It was all borne of the Mexican marketplace: the smells, the music, the colours, the buzz
After the openings of Zizzi, Pizza Express (we know, we know), the confusing Cosy Club and Vietnamese noodle broth outfit Pho, comes the Corn Exchange headliner - Wahaca.
The Mexican 'market eating' restaurant - co-founded in 2006 by Masterchef winner Thomasina Miers - is a big deal down that way, with sixteen restaurants across London, plus sites in Bristol, Cardiff and Bluewater in Kent.
Designed by Soho architecture and design studio Soft Room, Wahaca Manchester is the group's biggest (235 covers) and most expensive site yet (somewhere in the region of two mill according to the builders outside) - and doesn't it look smashing?
The Scandi spiral staircase is a stunner, the centrepiece in a clean, colourful, bouncy, bright fit-out. The challenge for all modern chains (sorry, brand), of course, is to appear as unchainy as possible, which Wahaca achieve by hanging clouds from the ceiling, having street artists spray-up the place and sticking a foosball table by the bar. Even the chairs are placed at a jaunty angle so as to be 'more inviting'. 'Chain? Us? Please...'
Wahaca ManchesterWahaca lay the Good Guy act on thick: lanterns are made of recycled paper; food waste goes on the compost pile; heat from the extraction is used to warm old people's homes and all staff come directly from the orphanage. Back in January, Wahaca even gave away free food to the sticky-fingered blighters who returned one of 4000 spoons pinched each year from the restaurants.
Yes, yes, hearts of gold, but what of the grub? Well, we didn't try any because the kitchens aren't firing yet (the first day of the soft launch is Monday 7 September) so you'll have to wait for the full review, but we can certainly give you the spiel.
"Mexican food was poorly represented in Britain," says General Manager Sasha Miljus, "Wahaca was created to offer more than sloppy Tex Mex, giant sombreros and chilli.
"Thomasina and Mark headed off on a Mexican adventure, visiting markets, street vendors and takeaways all the way up to fine dine restaurants. They found the food to be very similar, from the same sources and presented in the same way.
"But it was all borne of the Mexican marketplace: the smells, the music, the colours, the buzz. Food shopping and eating-out go hand-in-hand in Mexico - that's why we call it 'market eating'.
THAT staircase... phwoar
Manchester's Wahacans are a chipper bunchSo not just another burritio joint then? Well, of course there's burritos, alongside tortillas, tacos, quesadillas, churros and rivers of tequila. Seen it all before? Not necessarily. Ever tried tostadas, taquitos, empanadas, or buñuelo?
Street food plates range from £3.95 to £5.95, or you can choose the eleven dish Wahaca selection for two for £19.95. There's also 'Bigger Food', with options such as pork pibil (£9.25), fish tacos (£9.50) and British steak rubbed in pasilla and cooked 'the Mexican way' (£10.50).
MORE FIRST LOOKS...
- Pho opens in the Corn Exchange
- Solita launch their third restaurant in Prestwich
- Rust & Stone Organic Cafe opens in Spinningfields
- 63 Degrees Moves And Improves
As expected, Wahaca take this mezcal business very seriously, pledging to serve only 100% blue agave tequila (none of that 51% sugar-laced junk) and 100% agave mezcal from Oaxaca - pronounced wa-ha-ca. Ahh.
Beers are Mexican (from £3.65), Margaritas are rife (£6.95) and there's even wine on tap (from £4.65) - a growing trend in North America and, predicatably, Soho. We'll see about that one.
Tinto on tap?Wahaca's combination of fresh, ethically sourced, bona fide Mexican grub has had 'em queuing round the block in London for almost a decade. The challenge here of course, as is the case with any rampant expansion (Liverpool is next in the crosshairs), is to maintain the standard, the spirit.
As the Corn Exchange's anchor tenant, let's hope Wahaca have the beans to pack 'em in - there's a lot riding on this lot.
Wahaca opens for its soft launch from Monday 7 September and fully to the public from Thursday 10 September. Email manchester@wahaca.co.uk or call 0161 4137493.
Wahaca Manchester, Corn Exchange, Exchange Square, M4 3TR.
(photo credits: @EmGol)
