Neil Sowerby takes a look at the Korean BBQ concept’s new Manchester site
JAE Cho just loves opening things – restaurants Japanese and Korean, nail salons for his Maguro Group – but he really hit the jackpot in London with Bunsik, on the back of the Tiktok sensation that was its corn dogs – those chicken sausages deep-fried in a cornmeal batter.
When the brand came to Piccadilly Gardens two years ago it had Mancs queueing around the block, too. Now he has brought us Bullgogi, a Korean BBQ concept that debuted in Notting Hill in 2019. Whatever, the new operation looks set to be a similar hit for the Korean entrepreneur who first came to England to study English 30 years ago.
We meet him at the shiny new 165 cover restaurant in the former M&S site on the corner of Mosley Street and the Gardens. We are in a booth where punters can grill their own choice of meats at table using a digital ordering system. The name Bullgogi blends Bull, a symbol of strength and vitality, with Gogi, the Korean word for meat. It’s a play on the Korean national dish bulgogi. Basically it’s marinated strips of meat flash-grilled. We tried the in-house version; it’s terrific.
As the trams rattle past he tells us what has attracted him to the city. “Manchester has embraced Korean food with such enthusiasm since Bunsik opened in 2023, and we are thrilled to be bringing Bullgogi here. Korean BBQ is all about gathering around the table, cooking together, and enjoying the moment – it is fun, sociable, and delicious.”
Any special wishes for Manchester, Jae? Well, at the original London Bullgogi Spurs football legend Son Heung Min often popped in to support his native cuisine and heightened its profile. “Is it too much to ask Manchester United to sign a Korean star? They’ve not had one in the squad since Park Ji-sung in the Noughties.”
What should you go for at the Manchester Bullgogi beyond the grill?
Our favourite dish from our launch lunch was the Korean Beef Tartare Kimbap – seaweed rice rolls topped with the spicy, sesame-rich raw beef (with an honourable mention for the king prawns). Regrets? Not ordering enough of the greens, spring onions and pickles to round out the whole experience. You don’t have to go grilled meats. There are also some great stews and Korean pancakes (pick the house kimchi one).
We’ll definitely return in November when the full Hansang Set Lunch is on the menu. Inspired by sang (a traditional Korean low dining table), it presents a complete meal on a single tray with a main dish such as Bibimbap, Kimchi Jjigae or Spicy Pork, served alongside a selection of sides. Guests can choose from 10 main options.
Among the signature noodles try Gim Guksu, buckwheat noodles with seaweed and perilla oil, and Kal Bibim Myun, wide wheat noodles in a spicy sauce with tender squid and perilla seed powder.
And to drink? Bullgogi will serve Soju-based cocktails and Somaek, a popular beer cocktail made by mixing Soju and beer. A combo deal pairs bottles of Soju and Korean beer, allowing guests to build their own perfect Somaek.
Until 31 October, you can enjoy 30% off the BBQ menu, too.
Bullgogi, 6A Piccadilly Plaza, Manchester, M1 4AH
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