A Menu Of Wintry Delights At James Martin Manchester

Confidentials 26 November 2015

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OFTEN the quiet pleasures of winter get overlooked in favour of the giddy glamour of Christmas. Not at James Martin Manchester.

Long walks, crackling fires, berries on the trees and leaves underfoot - somehow the essence of each of these sensory snapshots is captured in a seasonal menu that reminds you just what’s so good about winter.

The dish was reminiscent of a savoury black forest gateau – dark, rich and indulgent

Starters are beautifully presented, the riot of colour a pleasant contrast to the misty grey evening outside. A goat’s cheese beignet was light as a cloud and a refreshing opener to the meal whilst the accompanying swirls of beetroot gel and beetroot sorbet added a crimson drama. Black sesame seeds gave crunch, texture and a faint smokiness, like one of the last bonfires of the year in a distant garden.

Pigeon was a real standout dish, no two ways about it. The pigeon breasts were pink and full of flavour whilst the medjool purée and candied walnuts were intoxicatingly sweet. The slight sourness of the blackberries and other seasonal fruits prevented the dish from being cloying though and everything came together in harmony. The richness of the dates and the subtle gaminess of the birds had an almost Victorian quality – all wrought iron lamp posts, carol singers, top hats, Dickens and snow.

Crown Roasted Pigeon

Across the table, the scallop ceviche was clean and fresh. The plump, quivering scallop was seasoned and cooked to perfection. The coriander in the ceviche had punch but it was a gentle one, more of a playful tap, which allowed the flavour of the scallop to shine through.

Main courses were equally successful. The salt-rubbed pork belly was a classic winter warmer taken to another level. The melting softness of the belly, paired with Ibérico ham, was strong and satisfying – a really muscular combination. However, the charred octopus tentacle and the roasted pineapple added a new complexity to the dish, complementing the meat and balancing its saltiness exquisitely.

Coffee-crusted venison was as also as soft and butter. Served with macerated cherries that had a bigger kirsch kick than even the most temperamental stag, the dish was reminiscent of a savoury black forest gateau – dark, rich and indulgent. The cherries were the perfect counterpoint to the big macho flavours of the coffee and the meat.

Coffee-Crusted Venison Loin

Wild turbot was full of traditional spice – think saffron and a big bowl of clementines. The turbot was meaty and able to stand up to the perfume and zest of the confit orange and saffron couscous. Yet another winning dish.

The pumpkin pie was a surprise. Even for someone not usually a fan of the squash/dessert combination, this was a resounding success. Rustic yet refined, this was a plate of woodland textures that brought to mind hiking through pine forests with rosy cheeks and a big smile. Tiny pumpkin pies were adorable in both taste and appearance whilst the parkin crumble, pine oil and flavours of cinnamon and orange made this one walk in the woods that won’t be forgotten in a hurry.

Pumpkin Pie

Chestnut parfait and apple crumble soufflé were knockout desserts too that both captured that wintry warm glow exactly. From the crisp chocolate of the parfait and the accompanying mulled wine, to the gently spiced stewed apples, towering soufflé and miniature toffee apples, it was the ideal way to round off a real winter feast.

Book a table and discover the winter menu at James Martin Manchester for yourself. To book call 0161 826 3168 or click here.