THIS was good.
So very, very good.
If you've not been to 63 Degrees then please hasten there asap. Change your plans. Go.
It was all about the balance of the lemon juice, olive oil, whipped cream and the caviar working together; and the textures, which had delicacy, moistness and crunch.
I liked this place when it first opened in 2011 and after a seven month or so hiatus in visits, I've returned and it's even better.
First the restaurant itself. It provides a pleasant space; a mix of robust simplicity with cast iron pillars and occasional exposed brick, and prettiness with the table cloths, lampshades and patterned wallpaper.
Graceful interior
The food is the main feature though.
For instance, the sea bass tartare (£12.80) with Imperial Oscietre caviar was pure food heaven. Crafted exquisitely and a joy to behold, it packed in flavours like people cramming into a Mini to get a Guinness World Record. It was jaw-droppingly good.
I'm giving it a ten because I simply can't fault it right down to the tart micro melons (no, I'd never heard of them before either) that gave definition to the fish. Then it was all about the balance of the lemon juice, olive oil, whipped cream and the caviar working together; and the textures, which had delicacy, moistness and crunch.
Get the fireworks out and celebrate. If you think it's expensive, prepare packed lunches on four days of the week and go and get this on the fifth.
Seabass tartare
The rabbit terrine with tarragon and spinach shoots was only a smidgin off another perfect score. The key here was the working into the terrine of foie gras, so again, as with the sea bass, there was a partnership of flavours and textures.
Apparently the rabbit is specially imported from France by a man called Warren. Ok the latter's name is not true but as Guillaume, one of the two chefs on the visit along with Sebastien, later told me, "We really want to make sure we have the ingredients we are happy with. These have to be of very good quality." Hence the French rabbits. Our bunnies clearly need to shape up.
All the homemade bread on the occasion was as good as it gets in central Manchester.
Rabbit terrine
As for the rest, a small downer was a courgette veloute which was good but not much more than that, however the scallops with a devine mashed potato - fried perfectly so there was a tangy oily crust over the tender flesh beneath - were beauties.
A proper duck fillet was exquisitely prepared with the normally aggressive meat rendered delicate in flavour but still chockful with character. It broke under the knife with explosions of those dusky and distinctive duck tones. It was quackers but worth the bill if you forgive the manifold and childish puns.
This was accompanied by a polenta mattress and a perfectly judged raspberry reduction.
Duck and polenta
A trio of desserts finally. Macaroon, raspberry and a magical chocolate fondant that split, opened, said hello and waved a little as it disappeared into the mouth. Again lush, luxurious, skilful.
Recommended wines include for the dessert a Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 37.5cl, 2009 (£28), otherwise good choices are a red for the duck maybe the St Estephe, Château Valrose ‘Cuvée Alienor’ 2005 (£39) and a white for the fish such as Pouilly-Fumé ‘L’Ammonite’, Domaine de Maltaverne, 2011 (£32).
By the way, many of the dishes sampled above were part of the Tuesday night deal, the Tasting Menu with five courses for £25. Bargain.
Scallop and mash
We have some fabulous restaurants in Manchester at present.
Many are big hitters with big backers. Simon Rogan's French at the Midland, Australasia, Cicchetti, Abode, but 63 Degrees is family run by the Moreau famille including Alex the manager and Eric the principal chef. The mum helps out with service too.
Its location is a curious one, on Church Street in the Northern Quarter, just down from the Arndale, and subject to an eclectic cast of characters passing the door. But this somehow fits as well. Indie of spirit, indie in personality you could say. As stated above, if you've not been cancel some plans. Visit the place.
You can follow Jonathan Schofield on Twitter @JonathSchofield or connect via Google+
ALL SCORED CONFIDENTIAL REVIEWS ARE IMPARTIAL AND PAID FOR BY THE MAGAZINE.
63 Degrees, 20 Church Street, City, M41PN, 0161 832 5438
Rating: 16.75/20
Food: 8.75/10 (Tartare 10, terrine 9, courgette soup 7, scallops 8.5, duckling fillet 8.5, dessert platter 7.5)
Service: 4/5
Ambience: 4/5
63 Degrees from Church Street
Veloute
Scallop and mash
