Promotion
'RUM, ribs, bourbon and beer'. You can't help noticing the over emphasis on booze in Cane and Grain's slogan. It sounds as though the food is an afterthought, like a kebab after a night out. But one look at the menu sets that misunderstanding straight.
Smoked for six hours then cooked sous-vide for 12 hours, it literally fell off the bone at the merest nudge from a fork.
This is as much an eatery as a drinkery. It's why it was busy with office workers when we visited at lunchtime. They weren't there for a midday rum bender (it was pre-referendum, when we still had a future). No, the meat was the draw. And in particular, the ribs.
We settled on the worn red leather seats to wait for ours to arrive. This is one of those NYC, down and dirty joints that fit the Northern Quarter's architecture so well. You don't feel like you're being asked to play 'let's pretend we're somewhere else' when you walk in; it looks and feels right for the area with its wall made from packaging crates and dark corners lit with glowing neon signs.
The food is American too, and be warned, this is no place to go if you're 'being good'. If however you're craving sticky red meat, salty fries, and delicious, gooey cheese, then step right up. You're in dirty food heaven.
The Short Ribs
Our reaction to the arrival of this dish can best be described as FEAR. What were we supposed to do with that shiny, black monster of meat. Stab it with a sword? Hide under the table? Once we'd calmed down enough to approach it, we found it might look scary but was actually the opposite. This was a soft, tender, and very devourable piece of beef. Smoked for six hours then cooked sous-vide for 12 hours, it literally fell off the bone at the merest nudge from a fork.
We had ours with a smoky, rum-laced Cane Sauce that held its own against the full flavours of the beef. Our side of greens and beans was crunchy and fresh. And the house fries were excellent with their garlic and onion seasoning.
Together, this made for a real stand-out dish. Worth visiting Cane and Grain for alone.
The Baby Back Ribs
These were more traditional ribs, designed for grabbing and gnawing. The kind of dish that leaves you with dirty fingernails and meat between your teeth. If you like having a bit of a fight with your food, you'll find the battle with bone is well worth it. The Dr Pepper Sauce had that lovely medicinal, sweet tang, and the pork was cooked sous-vide to keep it moist. Another great choice (and you can get it on their £5 lunch deal too.)
Mexican Bean Burger
We ordered this to make the point that there is food for veggies here, and because we'd heard it was worthy of our attention. The spice level gave a real hit of heat and the pattie's texture was soft, moist and mushy - perfect. The crunch of tortilla chips, salty cheese, and cooling iceberg lettuce set it off nicely.
Truffle Mac and Cheese
This is one of their most popular dishes, for reasons that fast become obvious. A crisp crust of parmesan covered a pot of rich, silky, gooey cheese and soft macaroni. The truffle oil created 'hmmms' all round. We could eat a whole vat of this, then hate ourselves after, then still go back for more. The perfect comfort food for days when you don't care about calories.
Cajun Chicken Salad
A slightly healthier option that doesn't lose anything on taste thanks to its generous use of herbs. The tender chicken pieces were seasoned with thyme, while the lettuce and avocado base was enlivened with a sweet mango salsa. Few people would go to a ribs joint to order a salad, which is a shame because this one is a winner.
Cane and Grain is on Thomas Street in the Northern Quarter.
