What To Order: Alabama's All American Eatery

Confidentials 5 August 2016

Promotion

WE'VE been waiting for a place like this. You can't take two steps in the Northern Quarter without stumbling into a US-themed burgers and beer joint, but we know for a fact (because we've seen it on Pinterest) that there's more to American casual dining than junk food.

It feels 'home-made' and tastes consistently good.

According to the mouthwatering pictures that populate social media, the kids in America aren't all narrowing their arteries on a non-stop diet of supersized dogs and triple-fried fries. They're enjoying slow, lazy brunch dishes made with fresh, wholesome produce, artisan breads, and lots and lots of perfectly styled, freshly-roasted coffee.

And this is what Alabama's does. From its popularity, it's clear it's not just us who have been hoping somewhere like this would come along. At weekends, you're lucky to get a table. On weekday mornings, like when we visited, it's busy. They could have filled a place twice the size.

Part of the attraction must be the setting. With its mustard-yellow banquette seating, sparkling donut lights, and the long, mint-green counter, it has a 1950s feel to it, brightened by cacti and well-chosen modern art prints. The overall impression is relaxed, welcoming and not too try-hard. Just what you want when you're easing yourself into the day.

But of course, the main reason everyone is here is the food. It has a freshness and integrity that some places lose by pre-preparing or over-processing their food. It feels 'home-made' and tastes consistently good. Portions are big too – we left feeling like we'd eaten half the menu but in fact, it was only eight dishes (between four of us). And there wasn't a dud choice amongst them.

Eggs Royale

Alabama's has its own bakery where they make their English muffins, sourdough, semolina bread, ryebread, and so on. The super-soft, sweet muffin was one reason this dish stood above similar ones we'd had elsewhere. The lemony Hollandaise was silky, creamy and balanced. The eggs were poached to perfection, spilling over the muffin and leaves when burst with a fork. The salmon, cured in-house with maple syrup, was glistening and thick. A hit all round.

Big Steak Breakfast

Steak for breakfast? Maybe if we'd been up since 5am working the ranch. Still, if you've got a hunger on, this will fix it. The pink-centered, charcoal-edged rump seemed almost too good for a breakfast dish. It topped a small mountain of thin, crispy bacon and seasoned 'home fries'. Very decadent – breakfast, lunch, and dinner in one dish.

Veggie Stack

Another dish that showed off their home-baking skills. This stack of soft semolina bread topped with mushrooms, peppers, spinach and salty cheese was filling and tasty – for veggies with an appetite.

Grits

Sitting somewhere between cheesy mash and porridge is this US side you don't see much of over here. It's made with ground corn, and is a very homely, comforting dish. A hug in food form.

Monte Cristo

This one was recommended by an Alabama's regular, and was the dish most of our group named their favourite. It might look like four big brownies, but it's actually French toast, made into a toasted sandwich of melted cheese and shredded ham and served with berries and compote. A beautiful sweet-savoury mix.

Cajun Chicken Salad

Like all the dishes here, this was very pretty. (Instagram's influence on our food scene shouldn't be underestimated). And taste-wise, it didn't let us down: the generous portion of chicken was tender and lightly spiced, letting the other flavours shine through. The peppery argula (aka rocket), red onion and sweet, lemony dressing made it a salad with bite. If you're looked for a healthier option that still feels like a treat, this is it.

Desserts

Buttermilk Pancakes with Wild Berries

A little boy at the next table had this too – his smile was full beam when it arrived. Being serious foodies, we tried to keep our expressions neutral. And failed. The slim, spongy pancakes were light and easy to devour. The berries were fresh and ripe (though perhaps not 'wild' – we can't imagine them harvesting these beauties from a forgotten hedgerow). The sharp, sweet compote contrasted with the dollop of clotted cream. All in all, delicious.

Banofee French Toast

Also available as vanilla waffles or pancakes, this was another delight. Squidgy cooked banana was topped with crispy caramelised pecans, and lots of toffee sauce. It was big – probably intended as a sweet main rather than a dessert, and satisfying rather than sickly.

Drinks

Coffee

You've got to get this right if you're a brunch place. And they've nailed it with a blend from local roastery Heart and Graft in the Green Quarter. It's rich, slightly bitter, and strong – one that'd impress the fussy folk who can't order a coffee without giving extra instructions to the server.

Mimosa

We love the idea of a 'breakfast cocktail'. What morning doesn't benefit from mild intoxication? This very quaffable mix of fresh orange juice and prosecco looks innocent but has a kick to it. They're selling them at two for £8 at the moment. We'll be back at the weekend for a few of these with our Eggs Royale.

Salted Caramel and Vanilla Milkshake

Drink or dessert, we could class it as either. This shake was creamy, smooth and mellow – not too cold, not too sweet, and topped with a sprinkling of rainbow coloured hundreds and thousands. Salted caramel fans will find it delivers on the flavour front too.