THE doom mongers and naysayers are warning wine prices will spiral next year in the wake of Brexit and bad harvests in the vineyards. I say that’s the perfect excuse to neck bucketloads of the stuff this Yule. Call it a pre-emptive strike.
To celebrate the ‘last Merry Christmas in our Euro-centric lifetime’ here are 12 quite random bottles (you’ll have to fill your own buckets), including glorious wines from our new best friends in the New World. I’ll start with two sparklers that aren’t Champagne, Cava or bland, puny, popular Prosecco.
2012 Borgo Regio Franciacorta (Lidl,£8.99)
This is party bubbly par excellence, Italy’s first wine to be produced in the classic “champagne” method of second fermentation in the bottle. Bottle-ageing on the lees gives it more complexity and richness than tank-fermented Prosecco – oh and with masses more bubbles. Lidl’s crisp, peachy version is a splendid bargain
Henners Brut 2010 (Corks Out, £29.99)
English sparkling wine has come of age and this is an outstanding boutique example from vineyards high above the East Sussex coast first planted under a decade ago. For his top wine former Formula One engineer Laurence Warr has blended 56 per cent Pinot Noir and 44 per cent Pinot Meunier, given up to four years lees ageing. It knocks spots of comparably priced Champagne with its combo of creamy brioche and citrus rush.
Larmandier Bernier Extra Brut GC Blanc de Blancs 2007 (Hanging Ditch, £75)
So you want to splash out on the real thing. I’d suggest bypassing the Grande Marque Champagnes (even though there’s a particularly good deal on Pol Roger Brut down from £39 to £31.99 at Waitrose). Pure Chardonnay, this is subtitled Vieilles Vignes du Levant (from east facing old vines in a single vineyard) and is creamy and complex with a very low dosage (sugar addition). Quite divine.
Soave Classico Castel Cerino Coffele 2015 (Wine Society £8.75)
The Henners or L Bernier would go well with your smoked salmon starter (or in our house gravadlax blinis), but we’d probably have finished it off long before then. So uncork a bottle of this excellent value estate-bottled Italian white, full of fruit and finesse but with enough minerality to handle the smoke.
Fiefs des Pierres Blanches Quincy 2015 (Lidl, £8.99)
There’s bound to be somebody in the family demanding Sauvignon Blanc, so pour them a glass of this generously priced alternative to Sancerre from what was amazingly the second appellation contrôlée created in France (after Chateauneuf du Pape). This example shows all its strengths, from its floral grapefruit-fresh nose to keen lemon and peach flavours.
Au Bon Climat Chardonnay 2014 (Majestic, £25, £22.50 as part of a mixed half dozen)
At the bargain basement end of Chardonnay picks look no further than the Co-op Truly Irresistible Australian Chardonnay (£6.99), full of sunny, fleshy fruit but with a slash of refreshing acidity. But trade up to Au Bon Climat from Santa Barbara County in Southern California and you get the ripe New World works – orange zest and toast on the nose, lush and almost nutty on the palate, it has the structure to take on the turkey in your festive life.
The Society’s Exhibition Cote de Brouilly 2015 (Wine Society, £8.95)
If you are talking turkey, also consider an easy-drinking red option, say a Cru Beaujolais. The Wine Society rarely let you down in this department and from a smashing vintage this offers ripeness and concentration without overpowering. You may even stick with it into the cheese course.
Ramon Bilbao Single Vineyard Rioja 2014 (Majestic, £9.49)
But that would be ignoring the siren call of New Wave Rioja like this forward blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha from old vines. It spends just eight months in new oak, giving it subtle roasted notes that enhance rather than dominate the velvety red fruit. Fine wit the turkey, it can handle spicy food, too.
Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas Les Hautes Garrigues 2009 (Hanging Ditch, £45)
Something heftier? In alcohol (15 per cent) and price? Then this southern Rhone cuvee made only in the best vintages from 80 year old vines fits the bill. It’s mostly Grenache with some Mourvedre and follows up aromas of blackberry and spice with a huge whack of supple fruit.
Tinpot Hut Pinot Noir (Reserve, West Didsbury, £14.99)
For the goose (or venison which we’re having) let’s do Pinot Noir. New Zealand is still a great value source and this silky beauty from Fiona Turner in Marlborough manages to add a hint of Burgundian mushroominess to the abundant cherry and plum on the nose, followed by a lovely balance of black fruit and acidity in the mouth. Reserve also stock for £18.99 the elegant, ripe Rhonelike Tinpot Hut Syrah, grapes sourced from Hawkes Bay.
10 Year Old Tawny Port (Marks & Spencer, £17)
So on to Port, de rigueur at Christmas, particulary with the Stiltom. For great value and character try a Tawny. This gold medal winner offers lush candid peel, nuts and winter spice aromas with a resinous raisin sweetness in the mouth.
Pedro Ximenez Sherry (Morrisons, £6, 37.5cl)
And a pudding wine? Once dismissed as a sherry blending wine, dark, sweet, unctuous PX will partner your Christmas pud perfectly. It’s even better poured over vanilla ice cream. This is a real bargain from a supermarket whose entire entry level sherry range is a revelation (try their Oloroso with nuts and Christmas cake).
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