CHOOSING where to eat in the Northern Quarter is no easy decision these days. From the comfort of the Koffee Pot right through to the sophistication of 63 Degrees, it’s one big box of Quality Street that you want to dip into at every opportunity.
On the opposite side of the table, Thea’s Yorkshire lamb shank (£15.95) seemed to be in contention with my peas for the title of food you could use as a weapon.
Thomas Restaurant has however, always been a bit of a toffee penny for me – a second choice when all my favourites have been devoured. That was until one abysmally wet Tuesday, desperate to get indoors, fellow Confidential writer Thea Euryphaessa and I decided to scrap the search for the ‘purple one’ and rip off the Thomas St wrapper.
As predicted, it was a safe option. Quiet and clean, it’s the type of place you’d take a business client for lunch by day, but if the superior cocktail menu is anything to go by, this is also the place for pre-drinks in the evening.
We went for a Joan Collins and an Amaretto Sour (£7 each) and both made a welcome change from the tiki takeover we're used to in the Northern Quarter, with its syrup slathered menus. Fresh and feisty with a mixture of gin, grapes and sage, Joan Collins was as dramatic as its namesake – the perfect palate cleansing aperitif to the starters.
Artichoke Risotto
The artichoke risotto (£6.50) came with a runny, crumb coated duck egg yolk that soaked into the smooth, buttery artichoke leaves and risotto beneath. Meanwhile Thea’s choice of potted smoked duck breast (£6.50) jazzed up with a crafty combo of prosciutto and chorizo was equally impressive, piled high on a bed of delightful “farty beans”. That’s Thea’s name for them by the way, not the restaurant’s although she wasn’t the only one with a sense of humour.
Potted Smoked Duck Breast
From the moment we walked in, the staff waiting on were chipper and chatty but most importantly, aware of our needs. There was no hurry to order, but rather an immediate rapport that allowed us to lead our own lunch. Thomas has got the balance of formal and friendly just right.
Unfortunately the main courses were less good. Fish and chips (£12.95) isn’t exactly the most adventurous of orders, granted, but it’s staples such as this that should be a walk in the park for a restaurant priding itself on serving up ‘everyone’s favourite dishes’.
My favourite dish featured an albeit fluffy, but disappointing batter that let down the tender white fish inside. More annoyingly, was the temperature that was teetering on tepid with chips that longed for another sesh in the fryer and mushy peas so congealed they’d formed cracks.
Fish And Chips
On the opposite side of the table, Thea’s Yorkshire lamb shank (main picture - £15.95) seemed to be in contention with my peas for the title of food you could use as a weapon.
“It’s dried out within an inch of its crusty life” she said, battling with the rock solid lamb shank and its undercooked sidekick of dauphinoise. Beaten into submission we both downed tools and looked for a sweet saviour.
These came by the way of the cheesecake of the day (£5.75) and the Thomas Tiramisu (£5.75).
Like the starters and contrary to the mains, the desserts had been made with due care and attention. The tiramisu was a huge slab of sweetly soaked sponge with lashings of fresh cream, while the cheesecake, although limited in biscuit base, had an unusually salty yet sweet quality to it in this obviously homemade recipe. The chef clearly loves his puddings.
Tiramisu
Despite disappointing with the mains on this occasion (we'll be back in the evening to sample some more), Thomas seems to deserve its position in the Northern Quarter.
The straightforward nature of its appearance and menu don’t allow for too many slips and dips. The high quality starters and desserts show the talent's there. As with the toffee penny, Thomas St will always be a welcome find in an eclectically mixed box.
Follow Lynda on Twitter @lyndamoyo
ALL SCORED CONFIDENTIAL REVIEWS ARE IMPARTIAL.
Thomas St Restaurant & Bar, 49-51 Thomas Street, City, M4 1NA.
Rating: 13/20
Food: 5/10
Service: 5/5
Ambience: 3/5
