THE WHARF, Brunning and Price, in Castlefield formerly Jackson's Wharf is one of the two major openings for Manchester city centre this year.
The result of all this is that the old Jackson's Wharf pub has been transformed from ugly duckling to swan.
A couple of weeks ago we profiled Tops on Portland Street - click here. It was spectacular in that Eastern way of neon, marble, sculpure and tile. The Wharf is just as spectacular but this time in that British way of wood, brick, books and clutter. A particularly nice touch is the incorporation of four real coal fires.
It's extravagance versus restraint.
I know where I'd prefer to spend an afternoon. Maybe even this afternoon, The Wharf opens at 5pm on Tuesday 3 July.
Through the arched way at The Wharf
So while this is a pub writ large, there are still across three storeys more than enough cosy corners to settle back in and allow the hours to slide by. There's even plenty of interest on the walls with prints, posters and maps showing off Manchester and the area through the ages.
Tops has 400 covers, The Wharf has more than 350 albeit with just over two thirds, 250 of them, inside the pub, and the rest on the surrounding terraces.
The key point of difference between these gargantuan food and drink additions to the city lies in the menu.
This is no mere buffet restaurant.
Andy Waters, the exexcutive chef has more than thirty chefs at his disposal and has devised a clever menu that reads well. This appears to be robust pub food with a bit of elegant panache. Let's hope it tastes as well as it reads.
The menu
I asked Duncan Lockhead, the marketing director of Brunning and Price, what had been the approach in creating the pub.
He said, "We take all the best bits of pubs and try to incorporate them into the design including good food and good drink."
Sounds like fun.
Drinkswise there are six cask ales, more than fifty wines and over a hundred whiskies. Two thirds of the wines are under £20. Here's part of the list - good to see a Sauterne on there.
Part of the wine list
The general manager is Rob Broadbent.
The ground floor has bar service for food and drink, the upstairs areas have table service.
There is a boules pit outside and great calming views over the water to Merchant's Wharf, complete with weeping willows and narrow-boats.
The result of all this is that the old Jackson's Wharf pub has been transformed from ugly duckling to swan - well on the inside at least, its external faux warehouse design from the 1990s will always be awkward.
Given the long and painful battles of Castlefield residents and businesses to prevent a lumpen block of flats to lurch onto the basin, then the result is very satisfying (Click here for that excruciating episode).
Manchester has gained an asset that the public can access - open to the world not closed and introverted. It's one that should benefit all the food and drink places around here too as it expands the market.
Let's see how The Wharf delivers on the all the potential shown in our pictures.
The Wharf is at 6 Slate Wharf, Castlefield, City, M15 4ST. 0161 220 2960. Click here for the website. The Wharf is taking bookings.
You can follow Jonathan Schofield on Twitter on@JonathSchofield
The Wharf 028
Chef Andy Waters looks over 'the pass'
