The French: A Star Without A Star

Confidentials 17 September 2015

THIS is all about the booths.

The French has gone up a couple of notches in terms of a complete dining experience. It's as good as it gets in the city
and region.

The French by Simon Rogan at the Midland Hotel is now a far happier dining experience. The simple tactic of placing high-backed seating down the centre of the elegant room has, at once, made space more appealing and the atmosphere less stuffy and intimidating.

Rather than having diners scattered as lonely as islands on a wide ocean, intimacy has been regained. Even the strange floorboard-effect carpet now looks the part. The door has been moved and The French given its own area outside in the dramatic Midland foyer. Soon toilets for the use of the French customers will be installed.

The fit-out couldn't find room for a Michelin star of course, nowhere in Manchester can find space for one of those elusive stellar devils. There is no consistency nationally and internationally in this. I've eaten in Spanish one star restaurants recently that weren't 50% as good in terms of both food and experience as the meal I had in The French on Wednesday. Meanwhile, in most of the one star British country house hotels the level is so far behind The French I doubt the sanity of the judges.

It seems these reclusive Michelineers go weak at the knees for a bit of old panelling and a view across the lawn to the stately cedar tree. It seems they yearn for an outmoded world of deference and privilege, old-fashioned, crusty, it seems they're simply not fit for the job. It's the only explanation I can find for this country house hotel passion. If a Manchester restaurant ever gets a Michelin star I'd love them to refuse it.

Better by design

Dishes such as carrots with ham fat and nasturtium at The French are wondrous, in the balance of flavours and the artistry of the presentation. The crab, runner bean vinaigrette and shallot was similarly gorgeous, a fine combination of textures, a dance of aromas. The butter was a lightly salted glory. The five spice monkfish was 9/10, the duck, beetroot, grilled onion and hen of the woods - a particularly ugly wild mushroom, here made beautiful - was 10/10. Amuses such as the mackerel, horseradish and dill was utterly beguiling, I could have eaten ten portions. The only slight doubt was over the pudds such as oatmeal stout ice cream, elderberry vinegar, rye and ginger bread which lacked sweetness, a worthy dish rather than an entertaining one.

Carrots, ham fat, nasturtium

Wines were expertly matched by the charming Sicilian sommelier and the whole occasion was overseen as effortlessly as ever by the restaurant manager Kamila Nkamchor. The meal was part of the Bitten Banquet series for Manchester Food and Drink Festival and cost £100 all-in with part of the money going to the charity Hospitality Action.

It's great to have The French back in such fine form. People should save their pennies and give it a go. Last time I loved the food but wasn't sure about the atmosphere and the design, that has been corrected. The French has gone up a couple of notches in terms of a complete dining experience. It's as good as it gets in the city and region.