A DAY has already had a result when you’ve stumbled upon the grave of the man who in 1860 invented the compound cricket ball we still use today. He was a Rochdale shoemaker called Hamlet Nicholson and he lies ’neath the lawn of the town’s lofty parish church, St Chad. There’s a helpful churchyard plan. Tim Bobbin, the Lancastrian bard, is also buried here high above that matchless Town Hall.
The food has always been a big Baum plus. True, it’s a menu that lies on the quirky side of eclectic – the ‘tapas’ are more Wheeltapas and Shuntas
Drizzled on, shivering, I was alone in celebrating two proud sons of a proud town. It’s hardly Graceland or Haworth here. That morning BBC Breakfast had featured bits of Rochdale it described as among Britain’s most deprived. Not the kind of publicity that’s going to bring visitors flocking.
The Baum may well attract a few. Deservedly.
Tripe Above
It has just been crowned Britain’s Best Pub by the Campaign for Real Ale. Coincidentally it sits in the Toad Lane Conservation Area, Rochdale’s pocket-sized tourist hub. Next door lives Little Nell’s Doll’s House Hospital or some such frippery, a Purveyor of Twice Monthly Ghost Walks and, naturally, the Pioneers Museum, housed in the first Co-op store in the world.
The Baum is not averse to flaunting heritage. It may hold the world record for the number of St Bruno plaques in one hostelry and its interior is what I call oaken-penumbral. Yet this converted hardware shop doesn’t smack of Mrs Miggin’s Pie Shoppe. It’s got a venerable atmosphere but also a bizarrely contemporary vibe.
Reflective moment with St Bruno in the Baum
Eight hand pumps dispense some decidedly current takes on ale – think far-flung single hop varietals – and a leftfield cider to steady your aim when you partake of petanque on two full-size pistes in the beer garden. CAMRA members get a 45p a pint discount, which enabled me to sample a goodly range at under three quid apiece. Heck Brewery’s Citra, brewed in North Yorkshire, pipped both the powerful Twisted Hop from Northern Ireland’s Hilden and Marston’s ‘craft brewery’ style homage to Kiwi hops, Pacific Gem, but all were immaculately kept.
Food was slightly more problematic, not because of what I had. The Tripadvisor Troll who laments The Baum fed him the worst meal he had ever paid for is a typical internet malcontent. The food has always been a big Baum plus. True, it’s a menu that lies on the quirky side of eclectic – the ‘tapas’ are more Wheeltapas and Shuntas than Seville partnerships – but the food’s genuinely home-made and affordable.
I couldn’t resist ordering the gross-sounding Hot Dog Topped With Beef Chilli and Cheddar, served with Chips & Coleslaw (£6.95). It was worth the wait. Ah, the wait. I’d gone back to the bar to ask for a receipt and this somehow cancelled my order.
Half an hour later I'd exhausted the Guardian coverage of the Pope’s potentially murky past... and an obituary of the last surviving member of the group who failed to assassinate Hitler – Ewald-Heinrich von Kleist, from a Pomeranian patrician dynasty. The equivalent of the Schofields in Rochdale, only less Prussian. (Ho. Ho. Very gute, Neil. Ed)
By now, the hops were running low.
The barman apologised for the delay.
Would I accept some more ale on the house while they got it out for me finally? I would.
TWO platesful of Hot Dog then swiftly arrived. One was enough, ample, vast actually, with stalwart fat chips, a crisp bun and a mellow chilli burn. Perfect beer food in a well nigh perfect pub, cash register glitch aside. Don’t just take CAMRA’s word for it.
It’s one very good reason to visit Rochdale, but surely not the only one.
Open your eyes and your heart while you’re passing through and you might find a few more surprises.
You can follow Jonathan Schofield on Twitter here @JonathSchofield
ALL SCORED CONFIDENTIAL REVIEWS ARE IMPARTIAL AND PAID FOR BY THE MAGAZINE.
The Baum, 33-37 Toad Lane, Rochdale, Lancashire OL12 0NU, 01706 352186 www.thebaum.co.uk
Rating: 15.5/20
Pub ambience: 8/10
Drinks: 4/5
Food: 3.5/5
Shining Handpump Heaven
Specials
Toys Are Them
Why this hot dog is the top dog?
