THE Manchester building that was once home to ‘the largest trading room in the World’ is now home to the biggest TGI Fridays bar in the world.
You’re a hostage to fortune if you describe your burgers as ‘juicy’ and your menu tells your diners ‘these are what napkins were invented for’.
There was much eye-rolling by Manchester Confidential readers when plans for the chain to open at the Royal Exchange were first announced. “The palace of the cotton lords becomes a burger barn for the shopping hoards,” ranted regular ranter Conman at the time.
To be fair, it’s not like they’ve ripped out the theatre and filled the domes with air-con. Instead, it is one of the unloved units on the Cross Street side that now accommodates 410 covers, and no fewer than three of the seven ‘master bar-tenders’ in the TGI Fridays world.
Juicy raspberry margherita
“We make the best drinks in the city,” says the website. A bold claim in the home of Socio Rehab, Australasia and Corridor.
TGI Fridays started in 1965 on New York’s East Side and is credited with starting the whole ‘singles bar’ thing. The red and white stripes, Tiffany lamps and central bar styling soon swept the world, and you can currently experience Fridays in sixty countries.
The interior styling has sharpened up in new sites like this one. The dusty, anachronistic wall stuff of the 90s is gone, replaced by framed pictures of American icons. The lighting is particularly creative. A Harley stands in the reception area, and there’s an installation of the American flag, made up of objects suggesting fun and spending time with people you love - jigsaw pieces, skittles, joysticks and phones.
Crazy accoutrements
You’re certainly welcomed at Fridays.
Every member of the young team we encountered seemed pleased to see us, keen to help, and well briefed on the menu and the restaurant.
The Fridoids, as they’re known, stayed just on the side of friendly and efficient, rather than that overfriendly style made famous in the brilliant Catherine Tate sketch ‘BBJ’s’. Although one of our waiters did do the Northern Quarter thing of calling me ‘Buddy’ after every sentence. OK if you’re from Boston. Not from Moston.
Friday's in Manchester
We started with the onion rings as we waited for a first round of cocktails. These arrived in various sizes, plonked on a plate with no garnish or dips. Delicious though, with just the right Cajun bite, and batter that clung pleasingly to the onion throughout.
My frozen Raspberry Margherita arrived in a Pilsner glass rather than the bigger Hurricane glass as in the menu. My friend’s gin martini was olive-less. Very decent though.
Next up, the Times Square Big Share.
The Jack Daniels wings were juicy and tasty in the signature glaze. The mozzarella dippers looked like something from Iceland but tasted way way better, with their light rosemary dusting.
The loaded potato skins were a disappointment. A bit dry and strangely flaky, with an inconsistent amount of bacon topping. Sour cream, tomato and basil and more Jack Daniels glaze was supplied to dip, and some celery sticks to ignore.
Round two of drinks arrived. This time we went for a Singapore Sling and a Blueberry Mojito, both of which were beautifully mixed.
BurgerYou’re a hostage to fortune if you describe your burgers as ‘juicy’ and your menu tells your diners ‘these are what napkins were invented for’. Especially if those diners have recently been to Almost Famous Burgers in the Northern Quarter, although to be fair that probably doesn't hold TGI's target audience.
I ordered the Black and Blue. This came with crispy bacon, blue cheese (sorry, bleu cheese in the style of the Yanklish menu) and blue cheese dressing. With a side of blue cheese dip, in case you hadn’t had enough blue cheese.
The burger was OK. Sesame bun, a little red onion, a tomato slice and an apologetic lettuce leaf. The blue cheese was virtually imperceptible but the dip was tasty and the burger was well cooked, though not quite as juicy as claimed.
My fellow diner went for the Cajun Chicken Quesadilla. If, like me, you long for the authentic Mexican experience in Manchester, you’re still longing. This was good as it goes, served with a fresh-tasting pico de gallo salsa and a good spicy chicken filling. But the rice was dry and bland - and there was a lot of it.
Cajun fun
We finished with the Cookies and Cream Sundae to share. This is where the Hurricane glasses are being deployed, rammed with vanilla ice cream, Oreos, fudge and chocolate sauce.
Keen to try more of the cocktail menu, I went for a SKYY High Elderberry. This is a ‘Front Runner’ or speciality and comprised vodka, blackberry liqueur, elderflower, apple and lemon juice. It was a flowery, sweet and surprisingly potent combination. Recommended.
The bill for three courses and drinks was just shy of £80 for two.
Families love the Fridays by the M60 in Sale, or at Cheadle Royal, or the Trafford Centre barn. The service at the Royal Exchange location is second to none, and the designers have come up with a mature and comfortable take on New York bars in the fit-out here - if a little ‘clean’.
But if you’re looking for scale, an American menu and a bit of showbiz, the brand has competition in the Hard Rock nearby. And whatever the menu says, Manchester certainly has better cocktails and better burgers.
You can follow John Ryan on Twitter here @johnedwardryan
ALL SCORED CONFIDENTIAL REVIEWS ARE IMPARTIAL AND PAID FOR BY THE MAGAZINE.
TGI Fridays is at the Royal Exchange, Cross Street, Manchester M2 7DH. 0844 692 8903
Rating 14/20
Food 6.5/10
Service 4/5
Ambience 3.5/5
Neon
TGI Friday
