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TWO YORKSHIRE puddings. That tells you all you need to know about the generosity and loveliness of Sunday lunches at Gray's Larder.
A roast that's not only fit for a king, but also his entire retinue
Most places only serve the hallowed pud with roast beef, and even then it's a solitary affair, often dry and dusty, having just escaped from the confinement of the deep-freeze, but at Gray's Larder, it's Yorkies with everything. Two towering puddings, crisp and golden brown at the top yet soft and fluffy at the bottom – I'm still in a good mood just thinking about it.
Even gluten free bods don't have to miss out; you can order specially-made gluten free Yorkshire pud which isn't something you see on many menus.
Gray's Larder really is the perfect neighbourhood restaurant: small, friendly and intimate. The fact that it's my local neighbourhood restaurant makes me irritatingly smug. It's a very British take on the sort of bistros and brasseries France seems to do so well. On a lazy Sunday, there's nothing better than dropping into Gray's and watching the world go by.
Ease yourself into the afternoon with a couple of starters – the Scotch egg with home-made brown sauce is particularly good. Normally, when it comes to fannying around making your own sauces, I firmly believe chefs should leave it to HP and Heinz who, after all, have had plenty of practice in this department. On this occasion, I'm willing to make an exception. Fruity and spicy, it was the perfect accompaniment to the Scotch egg, with its gently oozing golden yolk.
Scotch Egg
The mackerel is another great starter, light and refreshing yet also full of flavour. It comprises a fabulous rillette, a grilled mackerel fillet as well as pickled apples and roasted cucumber which act as a perfect counterpoint to the oily richness of the fish. It's a wise option considering the main event is a roast that's not only fit for a king, but also his entire retinue.
Mackerel
The Lancashire topside of beef and the slow-roast shoulder of pork both come from a local farm in Burnley where they live the good life before ending up on the plate. It's quality meat, raised by people with a sense of responsibility to the land and the animals rather than mass-produced fodder.
Roast Pork
The roast beef, served pink (or cooked through if you must), is tender and tasty, rubbed with mustard and herbs, whilst the pork comes with an absolutely stellar piece of crackling and a distinctive but subtle anise flavour from the fennel, thyme and rosemary rub.
Roast Beef
Vegetables aren't an afterthought – they are as much a part of the meal as the meat. From the big, bold flavours of the cauliflower cheese, thick, delicious and pepped up with wholegrain mustard to the perfectly-cooked broccoli and honey-roasted carrots and parsnips, thought and care has been given to bringing out the best in each vegetable.
Roasties are golden, well textured and crisp – you can tell they've been given a good shuffle round in the pan before being added to the oil. It's the little things like that which make the difference.
Squeeze in an affogato – Gray's version is made with Amaretto ice cream – and this is just about one of the best things you can do with your Sunday.
Affogato
