REVIEW | Zayka, Whaley Bridge

IF YOU drive through Stockport, High Lane and Disley, then Whaley Bridge isn’t that far to go for a curry. However, let’s say, for example, that your phone runs out of power, rendering your SatNav useless, and you end up driving over the Cat and Fiddle, via Buxton and Macclesfield. Then it’s bloody miles away.

It’s ironic that I’ve just described sea-bass as ‘more interesting’...

Zayka describes itself as serving ‘Contemporary Indian Cuisine’ and this comes across in their simple branding, restaurant decor and menu. The restaurant is as big as you’d expect in the middle of a terraced village high street. Walls are pale grey, floors are polished wood and the only flock pattern is muted on the upholstery. Tableware is white linen – although it didn’t stay white for long. After we’d been through the card, our tablecloth looked like Jackson Pollock’s toddler had been at it with the finger paints.

In Punjabi, the tenth most widely spoken language in the world, Zayka means ‘taste’ and they seem to be at pains not just to restrict that to the food, but to the whole experience. I brought my kids with me on this one. Never mind trivialities like English and Maths, I’m teaching them important things like ‘the aromatic group of spices’ and ‘geography through food culture’.

Zayka, Market Street

Goan Style King Scallops tossed with mustard seed and garlic

Zayka’s menu includes versions of most curry classics – because you won’t survive on your average high street if you don’t, however tasteful your menu. But a read through every course revealed one or two pleasant surprises such as Goan Style King Scallops tossed with mustard seed and garlic (£7.95) which turned out to be one of the best starters I’ve had for a while. Two fat, moist pan fried scallops sat on a pile of gently spiced onion and tomato confit, cooked slowly and patiently until rendered down to a naturally sweet paste. A perfectly cooked asparagus spear helped give the dish the fresh and fibrous dimension it needed – and that might be the first time I’ve ever eaten asparagus in an Indian restaurant.

Two lamb chops marinated in spiced yoghurt and barbecued in the clay oven (£6.95) were tender, but not without spice, as indicated by the chilli symbol on the menu. They disappeared in to my little boy’s mouth and came out within seconds as clean bones, like they do in cartoons.

With hindsight, I should have ordered the milder Murg Chandi Tikka for my daughter, but she soldiered through the spicier chargrilled Chicken Shaslick (£4.95, main image) with a post-battle glow of satisfaction once she’d cleared the plate.

Two lamb chops marinated in spiced yoghurt and barbecued in the clay oven

As pretty as they were, all three starters came with the same generic salad garnish and bottle-piped zig zag of coriander raita and chilli sauce. I’d describe that as from the 1990’s rather than contemporary and suggest chef has more of a play with the presentation – but still, I’d take that over the currently fashionable puree ‘drag’ any day.

I stuck with fish for mains, choosing from the more interesting ‘Zayka Signature Dishes’ section which included crab and lobster. Patrani Macchi - A whole sea bass prepared in the traditional Parsi fashion, steamed with coconut, sesame seed, coriander and mint (£17.95) was described on the menu as a healthy option.

It’s ironic that I’ve just described sea-bass as ‘more interesting’ as I’ve often referred to it as the go-to fish option for the less imaginative chef. Here, the whole fish had been marinated until pleasantly green around the gills and grilled over charcoal. They asked if I wanted them to debone it for me, but it’s part of the fun doing it myself. The fish was served with plain boiled rice and some crunchy broccoli, mange tout and baby corn. Along with the lemon slices and the cherry tomato fish eye, there’s definitely a nineties vibe going on. Post-modern, retro, contemporary ironic presentation perhaps? Whatever, it was a good dish, cooked well, I enjoyed it and didn’t have to go for a post-curry lie-down afterwards.

Patrani Macchi - A whole sea bass prepared in the traditional Parsi fashion

Kesari Malai Jhinga - jumbo prawns in their shell, marinated with saffron yoghurt and carom seed

Kesari Malai Jhinga - jumbo prawns in their shell, marinated with saffron yoghurt and carom seed (£12.95) were presented in a row like six upside-down can-can dancers with billowing pink frilly skirts – mind you, there was more delicious flesh on these than on your average dancer.

Dum Ki Biryani (£12.95) was offered with a choice of chicken or lamb and served with crispy fried onions and a raita flavoured with mustard and orange zest. The waiter told me it had been cooked in ‘Dum Pukht’ style – at least that’s what I thought he said. It was highly spiced though. I don’t mean spicy hot, I mean that it contained a build up of so many intense spices you didn’t really need much of it.

On a clear sunny evening, the views over the Peak District are stunning, and I reckon Zayka might just be worth the effort it takes to get there. I’m tempted to return to try some of the very reasonably priced Indian wines on offer, but suspect a return taxi would cost more than the meal.

Zayka, 29 Market Street, Whaley Bridge, High Peak, SK23 7AA. Tel: 01663 719555

Rating: 14.5/20

Food: 7.5/10 (chicken shaslick 7, lamb chops 8, scallops 9, biryani 6, prawns 8, sea bass 7)

Atmosphere: 3/5

Service: 4/5

PLEASE NOTE: All scored reviews are unannounced, impartial, paid for by Confidential and completely independent of any commercial relationship. Venues are rated against the best examples of their type: 1-5 saw your leg off and eat it, 6-10 stay in with Netflix, 11-12 if you're passing, 13-14 good, 15-16 very good, 17-18 excellent, 19-20 pure quality.