REVIEW | V-Rev, Northern Quarter

VEGAN food doesn’t spring to mind when I’m looking for a burger. But that’s all changed since the opening of V-Rev on Edge Street. This one-off diner in the heart of the Vegetarian Quarter is the area’s only vegan restaurant, serving 100% plant-based hotdogs, burgers, fake fried chicken and even ‘lobsta’ salad.

Several tables leave without eating, while others wave for the waiters’ attention

Food is served in a basket on greaseproof paper, like burger bars Almost Famous and Meat Liquor re-introduced back in the late 2000s - and the interior is a treat. The blocky baby blue and yellow reminds me of a soft play centre for grown ups. I’d quite happily live here.

While V-Rev is a new restaurant and concept, it has been transplanted from the café formerly known as V-Revolution on Oldham Street. The changeover took a few weeks. They’ve retained their loyal following and having never tried vegan fast food before, I find myself awed by the authentic taste. Somehow they’ve recreated real burger bar flavours – cheese sauce, tinned hotdog, ranch dressing – only minus the meat, dairy and eggs.

V-Rev has only been open three weeks yet queues form every night

The house special is 'Chkn'

Prices are solid. A ‘beefy’ burger will set you back around £8, while tofu hotdogs come in at £6.25. There are sides for £3 and loaded fries for £3-4. Craft beers are a standard £3-£6 while £5 cocktails are a steal. 

To be honest, I don’t know where I stand on the menu. Is it cool to copy meat food, or should vegan food be carving out a new line in cuisine? Whatever your opinion, vegan food is having a Greater Manchester moment (see my recent review of Stockport’s Allotment) - and in the current climate, when ethical food combines with great design, the results are explosive.

The restaurant has only been open three weeks yet queues lace around the hand-painted façade every night of the week (except Mondays); scenes the Northern Quarter hasn’t seen since Almost Famous opened in 2012.  

House special is ‘chkn’, a wheat protein called seitan dipped in dairy-free buttermilk, breaded and deep-fried. Choose from Jerry Zinger (fried chkn, cheez, hash brown, hot sauce), Satay Away (peanut butter, sriracha and Malaysian slaw) and Fillet Seymour Hoffman; simply chkn, lettuce, fake mayo. No illegal drugs here. We go for Guac To The Future; cheez sauce, guacamole, chkn and chipotle mayo in a perky bun (£8.25). 

The chkn reminds me of agedashi tofu – that gelatinously coated, Japanese creation – with a Kentucky vibe. The best is yet to come though, in the shape of a Young Money Chillionaire hotdog (£6.25). The tinned sausage flavour, bean chilli and a slick of cheez sauce make a dream team. On the side, greasy fried pickles (£3.45), cut on the crinkle, with ‘ranch’ dressing remind me why dirty food lives on. Its all the moreish things in life; salty batter, pickles and ‘cream’ in one, perfect mouthful.

£5 cocktails are a steal

Young Money Chillionaire hotdog

Unfortunately, V-Rev is so popular that they’ve run out of loads of stuff, including fries – and it’s still only 7pm. We admire the brownie topped with marshmallows on the next table. The peanut butter ‘cheezcake’ sounds good too. Not for us, though. The only option is a gingery, frosted cookie sandwich (£3.50), hugging a dollop of sorbet-style vanilla ‘ice cream’.

Dishes that don’t fare so well include Macaroni and Michele’s High School Reunion from the ‘beefy’ burger range (£8.25). This one falls on the palate with hollow grease. V-Rev has used a different meat substitute here - wheat protein and soy recipe – and it’s not for me. The macaroni lacks punch and I can’t pinpoint the chipotle cola bbq sauce either. It’s kind of slimy.

Lobsta salad (£7.25) is another low. I find it hard to get my head around a vegan take on seafood, and the dish confuses me again with its baba ganoush styling.  There’s no ‘baecon’ between the overdressed cos and tomato on the side; no need for dressing when you have so much fake mayo on the go.

V-Rev can be found on Northern Quarter's hip Edge Street

Lobsta salad is a confusion

Service is strained. Food comes quickly enough but our bill arrives replete with dishes we didn’t order, and a beer that costs more than it should have. Our waiter mumbles something about not being able to find the right button on the till, which is fair enough, but it’s tactics like this that Trip Advisor nightmares are made of. Trouble is, V-Rev has got so many customers right now that staff are both cocky and swamped. Several tables leave without eating, while others wave for the waiters’ attention.

But, at the end of the day, I can’t help but like V-Rev. The interior, clientele, hotdogs and drinks swing it for me. I love that they stock Fritz-Kola from Germany, and serve stealthy cocktails like the orange and rum Old Fashioned (Milli Vanilli, £5). The craft beer selection comes from the heart with Siren Soundwave IPA and a feisty Munich lager on draught. There’s an inspired wine and vegan shake list too – although I have no idea what’s in ‘cookies and cream’.

History suggests that a revolution only succeeds when it becomes the norm. I can’t see vegan fast food becoming my norm, but with a few tweaks here and there, V-Rev’s hard work could be over.

V-Rev, 20-26 Edge Street, Manchester M4 1HN