OH joy, another burger bar review. But this time we’re in Alderley Edge where, until now, only a couple of grills offered burgers, and they’re most certainly not what you’d call ‘dirty’. So, we find ourselves in the multi-layered, eighties time capsule that is Tomfoolery at 34.
So many flavours and textures piled-up high in a sourdough brioche bun just cannot be singularly enjoyed
I can only imagine what must have gone on in the initial concept meeting (at which they were all obviously high on LSD). The general theme is eccentricity with upside down vintage lampshades, mismatching furniture and props such as arcade games, old tellys and typewriters. Every wall and ceiling has a different covering; tartan walls, tigers on the ceiling, flamingos behind the bar, gaudy florals on the stairwell, multiple visages of Minnie Mouse and Hans Solo.
A closer look at classic artwork shows cherubs chucking rugby balls or statues wearing underpants. It’s certainly different, but after navigating past the white picket fence and bathtub seating outside, I’d actually go with bonkers and quite fun.
Tomfoolery at 34Food is served upstairs, but during the day the downstairs is a ‘cake bar’ serving a selection of radical confections and milkshakes made from any number of chocolate bars. The wall next to the kitchen is plastered with framed portraits honouring eighties movies (all of which I make fruitless efforts to pretend not to be old enough to remember), while the menu is also an homage to the decade.
Head Chef Brice Moore has definitely got into the spirit by not taking himself too seriously having had experience in serious Michelin-starred kitchens such as Gidleigh Park, Paul Ainsworth at No 6 in Padstow and also a stint at Manchester House. It’s simply about burgers, sides and salads, but, as you’d expect, Brice’s team make all their own buns, pickle their own cucumbers, prepare sauces from scratch etc.
However, and I’m convinced that once Brice takes a slight step back after the initial first couple of months, he’ll agree, much of his attention to detail and subtlety gets a bit lost. So many flavours and textures (no matter how carefully crafted and delicious) piled-up high in a sourdough brioche bun just cannot be singularly enjoyed. They’re supposed to complement each other but just end up in a big chewy brawl.
The Snake (£9)
The John Hughes (£10)The ‘Snake Plissken’ burger (£9) is a colossus of double beef, double cheese, homemade jalapenos, green chilli sauce, lettuce and tomatoes. It packs a punch and is almost impossible to eat without a retractable jaw. All burgers are served with skin-on fries which can be upgraded with the comforting addition of parmesan and truffle oil for an extra £2.
I had ordered 'The John Hughes' burger (£10): buttermilk fried chicken, chicken parfait, pickled carrot, sriracha, coriander, lettuce and tomato, but looking at the menu, I realise that what they actually gave me was the other chicken burger on the menu, the aptly named 'Fowl Play' (£10). This still had buttermilk fried chicken, but came with (an indiscernible) maple glaze, red cabbage and apple (honestly couldn’t taste any apple) slaw, avocado, lettuce and tomato. This was also huge, held together by a paintbrush, but after just one bite it all fell apart and squirted out of the side onto the vintage plate.
The 'Black Sheep' Burger (£11) was more of a sandwich than a burger; pulled lamb shoulder with BBQ ketchup, halloumi, pickles, lettuce and tomato. The free range lamb which had clearly been lovingly slow cooked, until the moist flesh was falling off the bone, was then bound in a super sweet sauce until the type of meat was almost unidentifiable. All the other ingredients were overpowered and I wouldn’t have known the halloumi was there if I hadn’t been expecting it. I overheard a woman at the next table asking if she could order the lamb without the sauce, but alas, this could not be done.
The Black Sheep (£11)
Shaved Veg Salad (£8)I thought I’d try something from the salad menu to counteract all the carby, meatyness. 'Shaved Veg Salad' (£8) sounded like it might do the trick, but again, the delicate round lettuce, carefully shaved cauliflower, carrots and heritage tomatoes were merely cowering under the bullying influence of peanuts, nuggets of strong blue cheese and heavy buttermilk dressing.
The popcorn brownie with caramel sauce and popcorn ice-cream (£4) was great, because the ingredients were kept simple and all the flavours worked well together.
The wine list totals four (one of each) and the cocktail menu is still a work in progress, so just ask for what you want for now (although not knowing the prices while drinking in Alderley Edge would make me nervous).
It’s early days; they only opened in late-July and are still evolving. The bill was reasonable, our bellies were full and the quirky atmosphere was relaxed. Once they’ve found their feet, this eccentric independent should make a fine respite among the hairdressers, beauty salons and champagne bars of Alderley and if you’re feeling like some madness, it’s cheaper than The Priory.
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Tomfoolery at 34, 34 Alderley Road, Alderley Edge SK9 7DZ, 0161 641 3070
Rating: 12/20
Food: 6/10 (snake plissken burger 6, chicken burger 6, lamb burger 5, veg salad 6, popcorn brownie 7)
Ambience: 3.5/5 - bonkers
Service: 2.5/5 - chipper, but they did cock-up one dish
Popcorn Brownie
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