WHEN Pertutti first opened in Castlefield, under different management, it was very poor. For those in the Confidential know this was a classic 'YAFI' - lowest common denominator Italian-esque food delivered in a ten years out-of-date style.
There are two cracking piri-piri fillets, as moist as a spring meadow, as hot as a summer's day, perched on a fine paella
With the most recent owner Chris Buckley, manager Finn Jaradd and chef Chris Lynn, Pertutti has become one of the more interesting independents in the city centre.
Restaurants such as this lie away from the glare of the PR and marketing machines flashing magical spotlights over the likes of Manchester House, The French, Hawksmoor and Iberica. They aren't 'glitzy' or 'swanky' enough perhaps, but they are the bedrock of a good dining experience in the city.
These places are the ones more likely to be visited by passing tourists than the booked-up big boys. You can put Salvis, 63 Degrees, Yuzu, Northern Restaurant and Bar and places such as Hunan into the same bedrock basket as Pertutti.
A recent visit was proof of this particular pudding. There's still an Italian accent to the food to tie in with the name, which translates as 'For Everybody', but there's enough freedom, innovation and initiative here to make the food interesting way beyond that.
Take the deconstructed chicken paella for £15.50. In food 'deconstructed' often means less, here it means more. There are two cracking piri-piri fillets, as moist as a spring meadow, as hot as a summer's day, perched on a fine paella packed with all the standards such as squid, mussels, prawns and proper saffron rice. Spot on.
A more delicate affair was the asparagus ravioli (£12.50). This was such a light sunny day dish you had to weigh it down with cutlery to keep it floating away. The mascarpone filling to the ravioli was beautiful but in some respects it was the simple addition of broad beans that gave substance to the food, adding bite and brawn. Feta and olives join in the party as well.
Asparagus ravioli
A lemon posset (£5.50) was another generously flavoured winner, with a good sweet and sour balance. The shortbread was delightful. As with all the elements of the food, sauces and so on it was homemade in the kitchen - as you'd expect.
The only caution came with the otherwise excellent starter of kedgeree scotch egg with smoked haddock. This was beautifully timed with the egg runny as required but lacked sufficient seasoning to give it the little edge it needed.
A fine but not edgy enough egg
I'm not a massive fan of the inherited interior of Pertutti, there's something very Knutsford 1998 about it, especially those silver bauble lights over the stairs, but when the food is this defined in flavours that's not too much of an issue.
Wines and drinks fulfil all usual obligations; a friend swears by the Chateau Musar here, especially the 2,000 at £50. The Sunday Roasts I've enthused about previously. Another thumbs up applies to the breakfasts. There's live music too.
Try Pertutti if you've not given it a go yet. The service standards and food will make you want to come back for more.
You can follow Jonathan Schofield on Twitter @JonathSchofield or connect via Google+
All scored reviews are unannounced, impartial, paid for by Confidential and completely independent of any commerical relationship.
Pertutti, 3-11 Liverpool Road, Castlefield, City centre, M3 4NW
Rating: 14/20
Food: 7.5/10 (kedgeree 6.5, asparagus ravioli 7, paella 8, posset 7.5)
Service: 4/5
Ambience: 3/5
