REVIEW | Habesha, The Village

MANCHESTER’s Ethiopian restaurant, Habesha, is almost impossible to find. It’s on the first floor of a kebab shop, opposite a sauna in the heart of The Village, and you have to climb an unmarked spiral staircase to get there. However that doesn’t stop this authentic spot pulling in the punters, none of whom appear bothered by the lack of frills.

Egged on by our waiter, we spend £38, which includes a full meal for two to take home, and enough bread to feed my street

Habesha is named after a large ethnic group with roots in Northern Ethiopia and Eritrea, hence the presence of lagers from both countries on the menu and a shared culinary culture. The restaurant has a tiled floor and toilets that have seen better days. Traditional woven baskets double as lampshades overhead while paintings of sun-kissed African scenes line the walls. Nevertheless, it’s a welcome reminder of sunny climes, and ideal for a cheap meal with friends.

Habesha

The menu oozes warmth through home-style cooking. Peppery, soupy curries are the order of the day, made from lamb, pulses, spinach, chicken or mince, served with mountains of dimpled, moist flat bread (injira). Verging on sour, the pancakes cut through the rich chicken stew (doro wat) and delicate lamb broth (awaze tibs).

My friend examines the injera bread which is served on a wonky silver plate, or in small, folded rolls, reminiscent of face towels. ‘It looks like tripe’, he says. But I’m into it’s moist vibe. As someone who likes to try the latest food fad, I’m also intrigued by injera’s main ingredient, teff flour, which has become fashionable of late as teff is an ancient grain (like millet) which is low in gluten.

Yetsom Beyaynetu

The mixed vegetable main course (Yetsom Beyaynetu, £6.50) resembles a traffic light; green spinach, cherry-red lentils and cabbage and carrot stews are dotted across the centre of a moon-sized flatbread. This dish is unbelievable value, both buttery-rich and infused with more-ish spices. I’d recommended it to vegetarians looking for an alterative to dosa. Being unfamiliar with the menu, I almost duplicate the lentils with a similar dish called Shiro (£6) on the side. Thankfully, it’s good twice.

With everything around the £6-7 mark, I take a gamble with the lamb-based Awaze Tibs (£6.50), which turns out to be the dish of the night. The light yet pungent hot pepper gravy pocked with tender hunks of lamb brings to mind my favourite Indian curry, lamb nihari, on a diet.

Ethiopia’s famous chicken stew, doro wot (£6.50), is probably the most powerful dish we order. The sauce strikes a singular, onion-rich note and there’s a tar coloured boiled egg lurking among the duck-coloured flesh and bones. The rich colour comes from a spice blend that takes in everything from sweet paprika to chilli, cardamom and nutmeg. Meanwhile, a mince dish (kitfo, £7.50), made from cottage cheese, clarified ‘herbal butter’ and vinegar, is pleasantly refreshing.

Awaze Tibs

Kitfo

We share St George lager (£3.50) brewed in Addis Ababa and complete with depiction of the saint himself on the label. There’s Ethiopian wine (£4 glass / £14 bottle) to try too - although most people seem to be drinking tap water. Students gossip at the next table while single sex groups of men and women share bread, stew and conversation around us. Two guys in leather jackets look on as a group Mancs watch the football on the TV. I try to look for a pattern among the customers. I'm pleased to report there isn't one.

Egged on by our waiter, we spend £38, which includes a full meal for two to take home, and enough bread to feed my street. Like I say, it is a back to basics kind of place, but with quality and value on tap, I’m struggling to think of a reason you shouldn't give it a go. 

Habesha Manchester, 29-31 Sackville Street, Manchester M1 3LZ, 0161 228 7396 

Rating: 13/20

Food: 7/10 (mixed veg plate, 7, shiro 7, doro wat 8, lamb 8, injera 6)

Service: 3/5 

Ambience: 2/5