GEORGE Charles confuses me and it isn’t the restaurant’s fault. The name which refers to a former shop owner of the premises is made up of my nephew’s and brother’s first names. Saying George and Charles makes me want to complete the family with Tom and Sheila.
It’s satisfying to see a local operator bringing professionalism to such a cosy operation and winning good custom
In fact I’m going to ask the restaurant to change its name to George Charles Tom Sheila and then invite the family down and say it was all my doing.
Maybe they’ll pay because I wouldn’t mind going back. This is a comfortable venue, sturdy with lots of wood but also providing handsome ground floor and basement spaces. There’s ale on tap, a good wine list and a modicum of unperturbing bedlam as drinkers mingle with diners and staff have to keep remembering which is which.
That fact gives the game away. This is very much a West Didsbury neighbourhood venue, good for the urbane folks who congregate in the suburb. Sat waiting for the food, we mulled over the differences between neighbours Chorlton-cum-Hardy and West Diddles.
George Charles: 'very much a West Didsbury neighbourhood venue'
'...good for the urbane folks who congregate in the suburb'Cellar Key in Chorlton recently announced it was closing because ‘it found it difficult to turn a profit’. This fine venue might have lasted longer in West Didsbury. It’s been a similar story with other similar aspirational outlets in C-c-H despite the fact the audience is remarkably similar. It’s probably all down to geography, the sprawl of Chorlton not delivering the tight focus of Burton Road and Lapwing Lane.
The food at George Charles is brassy. Forget shifty subtleties this is all about big classic flavours, delivered with imagination.
So let’s start with the mains because these are a strength here. The best was the pan roasted 6oz beef fillet, fondant potato, roasted beets, wild mushrooms and garlic butter (£19.95). The garlic butter on the perfectly timed medium rare fillet added a lovely salty earthy taste to the meat while the strong beets and wild mushrooms increased the feeling of wintry heartiness to the dish.
Beef fillet, fondant potato, roasted beets, wild mushrooms and garlic butter (£19.95)
Similar virtues were displayed with the well-presented rack of lamb with crispy polenta and root vegetables and a good strong reduction to add richness (£14.95). Parsnips and carrots added to the meal which again suited the season perfectly. Crispy polenta is all the rage at the moment but here lacked any sort of edge, the chef needs to add seasoning to boost definition. Polenta is potentially the world's most boring foodstuff.
Rack of lamb and polenta (£14.95)
The charred asparagus with poached egg and hollandaise sauce (£6.25) did a decent job as a starter and that’s about all I can say. The scallops dish with cauliflower puree and pancetta (£7.95) was more interesting especially the puree, but really these were diffident intros for the bolshy mains.
Charred asparagus, poached egg and hollandaise sauce (£6.25)
Scallops with cauliflower puree and pancetta (£7.95)
A pudding of white chocolate bread and butter pudding with a marmalade glaze (£5.75) was a surprise. With cream on the side it was bloody lovely this one, avoiding the big no-no of bread and butter pudding which is dryness while the clever blend of ingredients worked well.
White chocolate bread and butter pudding with a marmalade glaze (£5.75)I enjoyed the George Charles. It’s a tidy place with decent food, good for people watching. It adds to the Burton Road offer and, given its busyness, has made itself at home in West Didsbury. It’s satisfying to see a local operator bringing professionalism to such a cosy operation and winning good custom. Give it a whirl if you're down their way.
George Charles, 244A Burton Rd, Manchester M20 2LW. 0161 445 4999
Rating: 13.5/20
Food: 6.5/10 (asparagus 6, scallops 6.5, beef 7.5, lamb 7, bread and butter pudding 7.5)
Service: 3.5/5
Ambience: 3.5/5
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