They’ve captured the essence of the wonderful Lebanese culture and have distilled it into this gorgeous restaurant
Lebanon has a rich history and a cultural identity shaped by a religious and ethnic diversity. Its global influence has reached far and wide and can be seen across the world in art, music and dance - and of course, food.
In the 1960s, buoyed up by tourism, agriculture, commerce and banking, it was even referred to as the ‘Switzerland of the Middle East’. The country was as vibrant, colourful and rich as the ingredients that go into its traditional dishes; slow cooked lamb tagines, fresh green salads, whole grains to soak up aromatic sauces, flat bread with sesame-scented dips and sweet pastries filled with nuts and glued together with fragrant rose water syrup; all designed for sharing with friends and family.
They’ve captured the essence of the wonderful Lebanese culture and have distilled it into this gorgeous restaurant
Comptoir Libanais began life in central London in 2008 and has now grown to 17 branches - the largest being in Spinningfields, Manchester. All are fitted out with signature tiles which have been specially imported from the Middle-East to create a bright souk-like setting. Sirine Jamal al Dine, the Arabic actress, smiles down from the walls, menus and takeaway packaging, having become the glamorous beacon of the brand.
The name translates as ‘Lebanese counter’ which offers fresh, healthy, honest and affordable food in a casual, no fuss setting. It opens at 8am on weekdays and 9am on weekends for delicious hot breakfasts including the near legendary Comptoir full breakfast (meat or vegetarian) or shakshuka studded with sojok - Armenian sausages with slow cooked tomatoes, red onion and peppers mixed with parsley, coriander and garlic. For something cooler, there’s organic yoghurt so thick you can stand your spoon up in it, topped with fresh pomegranate seeds, mint leaves, fragrant orange blossom water and toasted homemade granola for a bit of crunch and satisfying chew.
Spices are key to this deliciously fragrant cuisine, but their use is very different to what you’ll find in the Indian or Thai restaurants of the Far East. Special spice blends such as zaatar; crushed dried herbs, sesame and salt, or sumac; a dried and crushed native flower, give a unique character to so many dishes.
From mid-morning until late evening, customers can order a rolling feast of hot and cold mezze, salads, wraps, hearty grills and slow cooked tagines. If your experience of Middle-Eastern food hasn’t ventured further than hoummus, pitta and falafel, you’ll find them here along with lots of new dishes to discover. We have fallen head over heels for sambousek cheese - homemade pastries fresh out of the oven, filled with halloumi, feta, fresh mint and sesame seeds.
Another ‘must order’ is any man’ousha from the bread oven – similar to a pizza, but much lighter, the baked Middle-Eastern flat breads come with a variety of fresh toppings such as sweet vine tomatoes and red chilli or spiced minced lamb with pomegranate molasses.
A list of signature Sirine favourites include roasted sea bass samké Beiruti topped with spiced coriander, tomato and tahina sauce served with saffron basmati rice.
For a taste of sunshine, try chargrilled Lebanese spiced chicken Sirine salad with feta cheese, romaine lettuce, spring onion, mint, vine tomato, pomegranate and pumpkin seeds. If Middle-Eastern comfort food is more to your taste, then tuck in to slow cooked lamb shank maqlooba tagine with five spiced Aubergine, basmati rice and chickpeas, topped with minted yoghurt.
When planning a visit to Comptoir, you must save room for pudding – even if it’s just one small baklawa with coffee. Or from the dessert menu our staunch favourite still remains mouhalabia - traditional and gorgeously wobbly Lebanese milk pudding flavoured with rose syrup and toasted pistachios but it’s a tough choice between gluten-free orange almond cake or chocolate orange and cardamon tart.
Drinks are also very good at Comptoir Libanais, and the wealth of choice coming from the bar area; cocktails, long cool drinks, homemade lemonades, iced teas and wines will have to be saved for another feature.
The restaurant, front terrace, bar area and semi-private dining room (seats 30) provides a versatile space for any occasion, whether you’re after a quick bite, a meeting over coffee, or a long catch up over food with friends. If you’ve not managed to visit yet, pop your head in to have a look at the gorgeous shop at the front; it’ll transport you to a timeless bazaar with hanging tea pots, bottles of rose water, pretty piles of pastries and boxes of Turkish delight piled high.
Pictures: Georgie Glass
