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RIPE tomatoes, clams, olives, the heavenly scent of fresh lemons – it’s all too easy to associate Italian cuisine with blue skies and summer but as the cold months settle in, Gusto proves that there is so much more to the country’s food.
One taste and you can imagine cosy nights by crackling fires whilst the frost scratches at the windowpanes outside
A recent Confidential visit discovered northern Italian cooking with a comforting autumnal twist that will provide a warm glow right into the depths of winter. Think hearty dishes that are full of wintery spice and almost as comforting as a mother’s embrace.
Here’s what we ordered:
Chicken Liver Pâté (£5.25)
Chicken liver pâté, done properly, is a true classic. Gusto’s version was wonderful; salty and meaty with subtle hints of brandy providing depth. The dish was very pretty, adorned with crispy onions, pumpkin seeds, cranberry chutney and sourdough toast. Light yet rich, it’s an ideal starter for the new season.
Spiced Pork Gnocchi (£6.95)
Pork is such as versatile meat - strong enough to be enhanced by big spicy flavours yet with a rosy delicacy that prevents it from overwhelming other ingredients. The little gnocchi dumplings were as light and fluffy as little clouds which is a testament to the skilful hands at work in the kitchen whilst the pork was enticingly aromatic, juggling sweetness, spice and salt in a harmonious combination. Perfectly balanced, well-seasoned and light for pasta, the gnocchi are an ideal way to start a meal.
Lamb Cacciatore (£14.95)
Lamb cacciatore, or hunter’s lamb, conjures up images of misty autumnal mountainsides. Like many of the dishes on the new menu, the lamb cacciatore is slow-cooked with unctuously tender meat bobbing in a stew-like sauce of tomato, fennel seed, red wine and pancetta. It’s a meal that warms the heart and gladdens the soul. One taste and you can imagine cosy nights by crackling fires whilst the frost scratches at the windowpanes outside. Dubbed the ‘best dish’ on the menu by the Gusto staff, it’s hard to disagree.
Panna Cotta with stewed plums and basil
This dessert was magical with more than a touch of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory about it. The creamy panna cotta, on first bite, exploded with traditional wintery flavours of cinnamon and nutmeg. The magic of this dish, however, was in its Wonka-esque ability to change flavour from spiced fruit to sweet, creamy vanilla, with a hint of herby basil. Juxtaposed with the sweet, tangy spiced plums which are the season’s finest bounty, this gorgeous dessert was the taste of Christmas on a plate.
See, autumn’s not too bad after all. Be thankful for crisp leaves underfoot, wrapping up in a warm coat and Gusto’s new menu.
Gusto Restaurant and Bar, 4 Lloyd St (off Deansgate), Manchester M2 5AB
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