'Manchester Needs Michelin Stars', Says Salford Prof

DR Norman Peng, a Reader in Marketing at The University of Salford, has been studying the restaurant business for the past four years and has written several papers on the subject.

I think there are some good ethnic ones around Exchange Square...er... and there's Hawksmoor

Now he's got a bee in his bonnet about Manchester's lack of a Michelin starred restaurant - along with about half a million others as the numerous stories on Manchester Confidential during the last ten years have clearly shown.

Dr Norman P reckons the Michelin miss is damaging the city’s tourist appeal and economy and he's not pulling punches. 

He says: “There is the demand there I would have thought, it’s not really clear why a city the size of Manchester wouldn’t have demand for top quality dining. There is no doubt that Manchester is missing out on tourist cash because of this. Foodies will travel to eat at the best restaurants and at the moment Manchester has nothing to offer them, it is just not on the map when it comes to the best restaurants. And it is something that shouldn’t be too hard to achieve.” 

Crikey thought Confidential, Dr Norman Peng must have something to back up the axe-attack phrase of 'Manchester has nothing to offer them'. So what was the basis for his knowledge? He must have a deep and intimate awareness of the city restaurant scene.

"Well, I've not been to many," said the good doctor. "I've not been very long here, only since 2015." He paused and then startled Confidential with, "I think there are some good ethnic ones around Exchange Square...er...and there's Hawksmoor."

You what, prof?

Dr Norman Peng

Hawksmoor is a London-based group with several restaurants in the Metropolis and one outside, namely the one here in Manchester. Did he know any others, could he give us any recommendations? He couldn't. Not a single one. Not The French, Manchester House, 63 Degrees, The Chop Houses, Yuzu, Red Chilli, El Gato Negro, Cicchetti or even Red Hot World Buffet or Greggs. For a man who writes strong opinions about restaurants he didn't seem to eat out much.

Then he surprised Confidential again with, "In many respects a Michelin star is similar to a having a McDonalds restaurant."

Suddenly all was made clear. Dr Peng was being an academic, a nose-in-a-book not a feet-on-the-ground sort of boffin. He doesn't need to have visited any restaurants in the city, he doesn't even need to be based in Salford. As an academic the simple fact of Manchester lacking a Michelin starred restaurant is enough.  

You see, what Dr Peng is trying to talk about is brands and the comfort they give to a certain type of global traveller.

"I'm chiefly focusing on the Asia/Pacific market," he says, even though this wasn't made clear in the press release that led to the interview. "Brands are reassuring. People trust them. Of course Michelin starred restaurants are independent of each other but the recognition by Michelin, a globally recognised label, infers quality. Food and drink is part of tourism and knowing a city has a Michelin starred restaurant indicates a certain level in the city and a certain audience. It's a safe way to travel. Just as it is reassuring to see a McDonalds as you get that instant recognition, although the quality might be different."

As a Manchester tour guide as well as a writer I can vouch for this wholeheartedly, certainly among the recently fabulously wealthy of the Gulf States and China. For them familiarity breeds content. On an official visit from China last year a carefully put together programme of culture and popular culture, including a tour round the treasures of John Rylands Library, was converted into a visit to Manchester United and then plenty of free time in the Trafford Centre.

It could be depressing if it weren't so predictable. After all this is classic nouveau riche behaviour in all countries, East and West, irrespective of creed or colour. Some tourists - often the wealthiest and least wealthiest - want their home experience reinforced while travelling albeit under different skies and with a different backdrop. 

I spend a few moments describing the range in Manchester and some of the fine dining experiences available and how the countless visitors I have taken around have enjoyed this range and the sense of discovery in finding somewhere unexpected. I suspect Dr Peng is only half-listening because for him there is one big shouty fact and that is the city has no Michelin starred restaurants.

Manchester House - Dr Peng hasn't been here

Finally Dr Peng says something we can all agree about, "Food and drink satisfies multifunctions, makes visits memorable." Unfortunately he then ruins the moment by saying, “Manchester restaurants might work towards a Michelin star through guest chefs working with their restaurants. High profile guest chefs will have a big knock on effect on the image of the restaurant in the future."

Well yes, Dr Peng, but please do a bit of research, because Manchester restaurants already do that. Meanwhile people such as Simon Rogan and Aiden Byrne might consider themselves pretty high profile already.

Dr Peng concludes by underlining how Birmingham, Newcastle and Leeds have Michelin-starred restaurants, although he concedes their football teams aren't up to much. It takes all sorts of qualities to attract tourism and this city attracts more visitors than any of our provinical cousins. 

It's difficult to argue with the simple premise that the city's food and drink reputation would be enhanced if we had a Michelin starred restaurant. It's actually a statement of the bleeding obvious. But while we don't have one of those celestially blessed restaurants we still have a magnificent dining and drinking scene in terms of range. As for Michelin starred establishments they'll come. It's inevitable. Maybe it'll be this one - click here.

What is also clear is that if Dr Norman Peng is sticking around he needs to get out more, taste the proof of the pudding and not just theoretically. Manchester Confidential will take him if he wants, show him some good food and good drink maybe some of the other sights as well.

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