PROMOTION
DINNER at James Martin Manchester is not the experience you might expect. Roulette, blackjack and the buzz of the slot machines all have their appeal, but it's not the kind of accompaniment you associate with fine dining.
When it's time to leave, then the call of the croupier becomes more inviting. After a meal like that, who could feel anything but very, very lucky
Although located in Manchester235, James Martin Manchester is a world away from the lure of the gambling tables. In fact, the mustard tones, rich hues and sumptuous fabrics are more in keeping with a French country house, whilst the exposed brickwork and steel supporting beams give a nod to Manchester's industrial heritage.
The crisp linen covering the tables prepares you for something special but this isn't a starchy kind of place; the warm colours and the patina of the parquet floor are welcoming and there are huge curved sofas, gently embracing larger groups of diners. Service too is friendly and attentive – nothing is too much trouble.
Our table by the window, where we tucked into soft olive bread accompanied by a quenelle of creamed butter sprinkled with sea salt, looked out over the city's architecture and Great Northern Square below. It was a taste of what was to come on the new summer menu.
The starters were as pretty as a picture and tasted just as good. On the menu, the wild rabbit was as shy as a cotton-tailed bunny but on the plate, Mr McGregor's garden burst into life.
A tart of shredded confit leg and the finest, crispest pastry known to man was topped with a sharp pickled carrot. The sweet carrot puree was a pulse of vibrant orange and the pressed loin was something you must try before you die. Crisp and golden on the outside, moist and juicy inside, it was a worthy end to the adventures of this particular Peter Rabbit.
Over the table, the Thai crab risotto was perfectly textured. Sweet and bright, it's no wonder this James Martin favourite retained its place on the new summer menu.
We were also treated to the ink-poached cod. The chef hadn't broken a biro, this was a hymn, or more accurately, a sea shanty to the squid. It was an interesting plate, full of contrasting textures: pearls of caviar; crisp tentacles of squid; soft, soft cod; pieces of pomelo that gave a fresh lift to the dish. 'Interesting' on this occasion is not a diplomatic term for 'inedible'. It means 'I ate it. Then I died and went to heaven'.
For mains, the monkfish was as gorgeous as a geisha, presented on a beautiful red plate that gave me serious crockery envy. Presented with smoked aubergine, edamame beans, sesame and miso caramel, the sweet Japanese flavours fused to create an indefinable flavour of umami goodness.
My dining partner went for the spring lamb chop, loin and glazed belly. The dish seemed inspired by all the best roast lamb dinners you've ever eaten – but better. The accompanying potato rosti was full of flavour from the fat of the lamb, just as it should be and the lamb itself was tender and pink.
The goat's milk parfait made a delicious pre-dessert before proper pudding gluttony commenced. It was a clever play on the traditional cheese and biscuits but way lighter, acting as the perfect palate cleanser.
Rhubarb and mandarin are encased in a shell of seeds and caramel, then drowned in rhubarb jus. The mix of sweet and savoury is ever so slightly addictive although smashing in the crisp carapace is a little unnerving when you're wearing a white top.
Desserts kept up the high standards with white chocolate and whisky croissant butter pudding and the James Martin Manchester honey pot.
The croissants made the traditional bread and butter pudding a much lighter affair but the rich flavour from the torched barley sugar meant that it was just as satisfying.
As for the honey pot, a crème brulée invigorated with bee pollen, it seemed almost celebratory. It was as if the city's emblematic worker drones were all on holiday. The thyme worked well, evoking bees buzzing round a summer garden whilst the jelly was a refreshing, grown-up take on birthday party food – a real sweet treat.
When it's time to leave, then the call of the croupier becomes more inviting. After a meal like that, who could feel anything but very, very lucky.
Photo credit (@emgol)
James Martin Manchester, Manchester235, Great Northern, 2 Watson Street, Manchester M3 4LP
T: 0161 828 0345
jamesmartinmanchester.co.uk
