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UNLIKE many of its rivals in a congested UK Spanish scene, Iberica offers a challenging regional adventure for the tastebuds – both with its wide-ranging wine list and some of its food specials.
Word from the kitchen in remotest Spinningfields was that mine contained a mix of quail, hare, rabbit, chicken and pork liver
Take Morteruelo, one of a trio of bespoke tapas created by Michelin-starred Nacho Manzano for his more casual upmarket chain. Yes, we had to ask, too.
In the rustic bowl lay an equally rustic terrine of some kind, quite moist, flecked with spring onion, pine nuts, parsley and diced wild mushroom in a sharp vinaigrette. Poking out of it were crisp bread towers for dunking.
Earthy and quite delicious, it married well with the mellow fruity, robust flavours of a Casimiro ‘Ale Beer’, the first of three interesting bottles from the craft arm of Spanish brewing giant Mahou, chosen to pair with the newly launched tapas trio.
But what is Morteruelo? A dish from the mountain region around Cuenca, a coarsely crumbed pate using up what meats are in the shepherd’s pot. Word from the kitchen in remotest Spinningfields was that mine contained a mix of quail, hare, rabbit, chicken and pork liver. The price for the surprisingly substantial dish and its beer is £17.50.
Immedately recognizable was a second dish, centred on three chubby scallops, perfectly seared with hollandaise sauce and a tangle of spiralised celery. A decidedly Michelin-style intervention was the iodine-rich squiggle of seaweed puree. This interacted deliciously with the accompanying Casimiro Marcenado wheat beer, citrusy and yeasty on the nose but all caramel and stewed bananas on the palate. (£16.50 the pairing).
Our favourite of the beers, though, was the Casimiro Maravillas strong lager, much the heftiest of the trio at seven per cent with a toasty nose, a dense hoppy texture on the palate and a lingering bitterness that initially threatened to overwhelm the third tapa of quail with marinated apple, then accommodated the braised bird’s own intense savouriness (£20 the duo).
This bespoke tapas addition to the general menu is just part of a very active involvement with customers. Check out their list of special events, which include gin, wine and olive oil tastings. Nearly a year open, Iberica isn’t resting on its laurels. A recent game dinner just before Christmas produced one of Confidential’s dishes of 2015 – duck with beetroot.
Iberica, 14-15 The Avenue Spinningfields, Manchester M3 3HF. 0161 358 1350.