FIRST off, let’s take a look back to 2006, a year when the economy was in overdrive and we all thought it would go on forever. Here is a quick list of the bars and restaurants that opened that year:
The good news is that we should start to see new growth coming out of the fine dining kitchens
Yang Sing (re-launch)/Sapporo Teppanyaki/Cocoa Rooms (gone)/Ithaca (gone)/Rossetti (gone)/Panacea (no longer a restaurant)/Numero (gone)/Marmalade (gone)/The Bridge (post Rob Owen Brown, gone)/Fellicini (gone)/Luso (gone)/Pesto (gone)/Wild Berries (Oldham, gone)/Chaophraya/Odder (gone)/Linen (gone)/Circle Club (gone)/Grill on the Alley.
So, a quick add-up, 4 still with us, 14 gone.
There may be a few lessons to be learnt here. But let’s not forget that a couple of years later saw a near collapse of the world banking system followed by a recession that went on for five years. It was a weird recession in as much as the restaurant and bar scene in Manchester and across the North West actually flourished, mainly due to what the marketers call the ‘Y’ generation: affluent young-ish folk who, unable to get mortgages, rent their homes and spend on food and booze instead.
City centres have also benefitted from the habits of the ‘shiresters’ shifting. People in the country are coming into cities in big numbers at the weekend and during the week for celebrations rather heading to the pub in Tarporley.
Hence, 2015 has seen an even bigger set of openings than back in 2006. Nearly three times as many in fact. So, what can be learnt from 2006?
It’s all about understanding the market.
Panacea (credit The Vain)Firstly, everyone is a VIP.
Today, if you can pay, you expect to be in. Back in 2006 footballers and their wags were on the booze, while the property guys were stoking the economy Tuesdays, Wednesdays and especially Thursdays. The rest of us were on a roll as well. High-end spenders were commonplace and there were more diners than covers. This quickly changed and the lines outside Panacea became as scarce as the lines of credit from the banks.
Even then, the amateurs had problems.
Clubs down in London were looked at in awe, you know them, the ones where they sold a thousand annual memberships at a thousand quid. I have seen at least five of these set up in Manchester, with each and every one failing. Their marketing talked about ‘exclusivity’, ‘cool’, ‘the fabulous few’.
Tony Wilson, founder of Factory Records and The Hacienda, famously had a sign put up on the back of the door leading onto the stage of the Hacienda, to remind the visiting acts about something.
‘This is Manchester. We do things differently here.”
So, for example, the class of 2006, the Cocoa rooms, Circle Club et al, went down the pan because 90% of Mancunia who can afford to won’t go to ‘exclusive VIP’ venues. They are deeply uncool.
The footballers became serious athletes, whilst the credit lines of the property boys went up in smoke in one month - October 2008. If that recession did one thing for the rest of us it taught us to spend money on the things that mattered; quality food, booze and buzz. Along with not looking a twat.
2015 saw the Milton Club misfire, that very silly rope and data mining exercise inside the lobby has disappeared, as have the fees. Neighbourhood, a fine restaurant, lost its way mistaking itself for a nightclub. It’s now the place to avoid if you want a late drink, but it may yet do a conjuring trick and survive by way of its food. While Hotel Gotham and its horrific Club Brass will have to change. It is fast becoming the laughing stock of the city. Who wants to be a member of ‘Club Brass’? It has no redeeming features whatsoever. One more is coming over the horizon, Amira Privé in Salford. Good luck with that one folks.
Manchester HouseThe good news is that we should start to see new growth coming out of the fine dining kitchens. The French and Manchester House, having now proven that Mancunia will pay for quality without condescension, are showing the way and we shall soon see the pupils leaving and setting up their own places, starting this coming year. Hopefully they will take over from their masters.
63 Degrees has settled nicely into their new home, the Moreau clan are working well. The new Quill, with the excellent young chef, Curtis Stewart, is showing great promise, whilst rumours abound of a move to Manchester by Michael O’Hare, recent winner of a Michelin Star with his quirky Leeds place, The Man Behind the Curtain.
So, I for one believe that high end will consolidate and grow. But please, if you are considering this area, remember self-praise is no recommendation. No southern PR.
The Corn Exchange.
It’s opened and should flourish in 2016. In the trade, the places on show here are described as ‘premium casual’. They are a mix of small high quality chains, local chains and mega chains. It has a nice vibe once you're in, but the owners have to do a Spinningfields in my opinion and that is engage with Manchester and beyond if the tenants want to see footfall sooner rather than later.
Spinningfields.
It’s (nearly) full. Its gaffa, Mike Ingall (aka Mingle The Merciless) has done a good job. Let's hope he doesn’t get too big for his boots in the Old Granada area he now controls, and, of course, London Road Fire Station. Confidential is keeping a watchful eye on proceedings. All it takes for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing.
The Northern Quarter.
Riddled with independents mostly too posh to push, they need to learn that there is a limited supply of hipsters and that growth will come from attracting punters from further afield. If they don’t they may well find their trendy little enclave turning into a cesspit. Grow up boys and girls, like Panacea in 2009 the queues outside Almost Famous have disappeared. Time to think, eh?
Northern QuarterCanal Street.
For the first time in eighteen years I have started to hear from restaurant, café and bar owners the desire to rise above the 'Gay Village’ and become ‘The Village’ instead. It’s time boys and girls, and whilst you have to stay vigilant against (reducing) homophobia, you are becoming part of the main stream. Have a spring clean, up your game and push the hen parties over London Road. You're a notch above the rest when it comes to creativity and service. Now is your time.
However, it isn’t the time for bloggers.
'In old days books were written by men of letters and read by the public. Nowadays books are written by the public and read by nobody.'
That Oscar Wilde quote is well over a hundred years old.
Food Bloggers, thankfully, were about 80% down in 2015 from 2013. It’s a blessing. The main reasons for their decline here in the North West are two-fold; a small number of highly vocal ‘Citizen Smiths’ have run out of steam and the fact that they don’t pay attention to the rules. They neither inform, educate nor entertain. They can’t even irritate that well.
Actually, they just can’t write.
Street food.
Oh Christ, I’m bored.
Indian.
Indian subcontinent cuisine will continue to flesh out. The arrival of The Indian Tiffin Rooms at First Street will cause a re-think at the likes of Akbars and EastzEast, or they will fold. The new destination Indian, Asha's, opposite the Midland on Peter Street, will take their top end spenders away whilst Scene down by the river in Spinningfields will eat into their premium casual business. Scrub those stockpots lads, and change the cooking oil a bit more diligently. The Curry Mile will need a sodding miracle, Mughli or no Mughli.
That’s it for now folks, the normal Gordo service will be resumed in the new year.
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