CHENNAI Dosa is Manchester’s word-of-mouth success story in the unlikely surrounds of Streford Mall. It’s named after Chennai, the capital city of Tamil Nadu, where the Indian pancake comes from and dosas are the house special, alongside bitter-sweet oothappam breads, rice dishes, tiffin or Indian snacks and simple curries.
Somewhat rough and ready, I think makes a nice change from the ‘fine-dining-isation’ of Asian street and snack food.
I have to say, the location is mental – this is an almost abandoned shopping mall, the kind of place you expect zombies to crawl out of after dark – but Chennai Dosa is buzzing from 10.30am in the morning until 10.30pm at night.
Mad location
People queue out the door for the all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet (£3.99), fresh coriander and chilli donuts and mango lassis. Dry, spicy cauliflower (Gobi 65, £3.75), mutton curry and old favourites like daal and chilli paneer are a few dishes we tried – and there’s a five foot family dosa for that special occasion too.
In the car on the way, my son informs me that the dosas better be good. “I had one with my friend in Wembley” he says, “and it was disappointing.”
I had no idea he’d been to Wembley, but it turns out we’re in luck. There’s a kid’s dosa (£3.25) with traditional coconut chutney, sambar (a soupy, savoury vegetable curry) and a mixed coriander and tomato dip.
I find the dosa a little greasy – although my son loves it – so I tackle his dad’s chilli and coriander topped oothappam with gusto. Exotically vinegary in flavour, it’s got a Scotch Pancake texture a bit like spongy Ethiopian injera bread and the kick of a mule. I pile the mustard seed-pocked sauce, heaps of coconut chutney and oothappam into my mouth.
Dosa attack
The Chettinadu mutton curry (£4.75) sees star-anise-stoked meat wrapped around heart-shaped rings of bone. A love letter to simplicity, its flavours are suited to those who like game, and the kind of thing that would take ages to cook at home. Humble daal (£2.50) is another test of a chef’s mettle, and Chennai’s soars with garlicky umami. But stars of the show are two savoury, coriander-packed ring donut things (Methu Vadai, 50p each), fresh and airy as a day on Kinder Scout. A pint of Cobra lager, meanwhile, is sparkling company.
Chennai Dosa
While I’m no expert, Chennai’s sweets are delightful. A Sri Lankan ‘hot dog’ shaped thing called Chom Chom (90p) stands out for its ways with condensed milk, sugar, the soft heat of cardamom, perhaps and buttercream puff, while a honeycomb-style Mysore Pak (90p) is extremely moreish.
Chennai Dosa
In fact, the only thing that doesn’t chime for me is the sweet and overly cheesy chilli paneer (£3.99). It’s the kind of thing you might find at a cheap, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet.
Driving around the back of the concrete mall, the air seems to shudder with unfulfilled potential, or maybe a realisation that the end is nigh.
But appearances can be deceptive and Chennai Dosa is actually one of the world’s growing international restaurant chains serving up quality, authentic Indian food to the diaspora - and back home - as well as hordes of people from other countries who are hooked on proper fast food.
Chennai Dosa
Décor riffs on a canteen theme. Trays holding metal jugs and beakers dominate the wipe-clean surfaces, while dosas and other pancakes are served in compartmentalised steel trays. Staff are incredibly helpful, popping back and forth at the raise of an eyebrow, while signs on the wall encourage you to eat with your hands.
“Feel the difference” they say, “use your fingers rather than lifeless spoons and forks.” Somewhat rough and ready, I think makes a nice change from the ‘fine-dining-isation’ of Asian street and snack food.
In fact, those prepared to take a gamble on their dinner are in for a treat. ‘Chennai’s finest - now in the UK!’, the menu chirps, while offering no explanation next to fabulously named dishes like Paper Roast (£3.25) and Idiyyappam Mutton Kothu (£4.99). But, when nothing costs over £4.99 and the stakes aren’t too high why not go for broke?
Follow Ruth on Twitter @RuthAllan
ALL SCORED CONFIDENTIAL REVIEWS ARE IMPARTIAL.
Chennai Dosa, Unit 119 Chester Rd, Stretford, Manchester M32 9BH. Tel: 0161 865 7777
Rating: 13.5/20
Food: 7/10 (Gobi 5, methu vadai 9, chilli paneer 3, dosa 6, oothappam 8, daal 8, mutton 8, sweets 7)
Ambience: 2.5/5
Service: 4/5
Chennai Dosa
Chennai Dosa
Chennai Dosa
Chennai Dosa
Chennai Dosa
Chennai Dosa
Chennai Dosa
Chennai Dosa
