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WHEN is a brunch not a brunch? How about when it's served in the afternoon? The new Champagne Brunch at Epernay has some of the hallmarks of that very on-trend mix of breakfast and lunch (croissants, coffee, fresh orange juice) but it's a strictly pm affair. It's actually better described as their alternative to afternoon tea – a more Continental, more balanced, less sugar-dosed version. If you've done finger sandwiches, scones and cakes to death, try this for your next celebration or treat.
It was like the best bits of a trip to a French provincial market: rustic, fresh and all homemade.
They invited us to a preview ahead of its launch this weekend. Epernay has had a revamp recently and its chic yet muted interior reflects the quietly confident team now at its helm.
The elevated views through the huge windows, and generous spacing between tables gives it a luxurious, soothing feel. But even with these calming vibes, we had a sudden rush of food-excitement when the brunch board arrived.
It was like the best bits of a trip to a French provincial market – the kind of dream picnic food that Elizabeth David wrote about: rustic, fresh and all homemade.
We began with the mackerel pate which was smooth and creamy with a hint of lemon zest and chilli. It was lovely smeared in a thick layer on the crunchy, rosemary crostini.
The croissants were also homemade: big, buttery, soft and very fresh. We filled ours with the proscuitto and the triple-cream vignotte cheese from Normandy. Think an ultra-creamy version of brie.
The broccoli quiche was another hit: simple, understated and delicious. The base was olive oil pastry, something we'd like to see more of as it works so much better than a thick, spongy shortcrust.
Then onto the sweet side of the board which was several well-chosen pastries from Slattery's. With their fresh raspberries and drizzlings of fine chocolate, they looked and tasted like something you'd find under glass in a French pattiserie. Like the rest of the food, they were very high quality.
We liked the fact that the brunch was mainly savoury rather than mainly sweet like a British afternoon tea. It felt much more natural, much less like a sugar binge. And much less likely to bring about an energy crash a few hours later.
It was served with a flute of Epernay's house champagne Palmer Brut. This comes from a well-regarded co-operative in the Montagne des Reims that supplies champagne to some of the most exclusive champagne houses (who then call it their own). So it's very good. A significant upgrade on the no-name prosecco you're often served at a traditional afternoon tea.
The brunch also includes a tall glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, and your choice of tea or coffee – the latter coming from Manchester roastery, Heart and Graft.
With three drinks to enjoy, this is a brunch that could stretch out over several hours at least. It's a new idea so it's a gamble but we think it's one that will work. Next time someone suggests afternoon tea to us, we're going to suggest this instead.
The Champagne Brunch at Epernay is £25pp. It's served from midday to 4pm on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. To book, please call Epernay on 0161 834 8802 or email bookings@epernaymanchester.co.uk.
Epernay also offers drinks masterclasses, birthday celebrations and hen party packages. Find out more.
Photo credit: Emma Golpys
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