VIDEO | Take A Look Inside Bundobust

THOUGH the terms ‘craft beer’ and ‘Indian street food’ don’t have the pull they once did, diluted as they have been (in some cases, not all) by chancers and charlatans, this has certainly not been the case with Bundobust – a Leeds import which has had Manchester chowhounds and hopsters salivating like hyenas since they first revealed designs on the city late last year.

Originally a pop-up project from Marko Husak (the guru behind specialist Bradford beer bar, The Sparrow) and Mayur Patel (of award-winning family-run Indian restaurant, Prashad), a few sell-out events convinced the pals to take a punt on bricks 'n' mortar, opening their Leeds city centre branch in the summer of 2014 to critical praise and even a nod from those effete Michelin inspectors.

“We always knew Manchester would be our next move,” says Patel, as he and Husak extol the virtues of Manchester’s ‘rice n three’ ritual.

At some 4,000 sq ft, the 150-cover Manchester branch – launching next door to Subway in the old Metro Chinese Buffet (a ‘particularly colourful’ corner of Piccadilly Gardens) – is more than twice the size of the original.

“There were a few raised eyebrows when we revealed the site,” explains Husak, “but the potential and the footfall was there – plus we back right onto all the indie regeneration in Northern Quarter.”

And the pair have done a fine job of stripping away the legacy of the buffet to reveal a wealth of original features, including stone stairwells, modish white tiling and a remarkable glass skylight, tarted up with industrial light fixtures, vintage Bollywood prints, bright orange chipboard booths and rounded spectacles...

Mayur Patel and Marko Husak

But what of the tuck?

Steaming pots of Gujarati veggie snacks, such as Punjabi Kadhi (warm yoghurt soup with onions, giner and gobi dumplings) and Chloe Bhatura (chickpeas in onion and tomato sauce with flatbread), come accompanied by eco-tableware and, typically, a cutting-edge beer to pair with the nosh (ask the staff).

“For a good taste of Bundobust order the okra fries (£3.50), bundo chaat (£4.50) and biryani bhaji balls (£5) – which are like our version of an arancini,” says Patel.

“Or the vada pav…” says Husak, “a spicy, fried, mashed potato ball served in a brioche bun with red & green chutney and hot green chillies – the only veggie burger you’ll ever need.”

Over at the bar, alongside the keg beers you'll find a long list of bottles including Wild Bear and Mikkeller, and two cask pumps dedicated entirely to Manchester brews.  

And where else could you pair one of To Øl's 'Santa Gose Fuck It All' sours with a handful of Patel's special festive sprout bhajis?