SOME people assume that the game season begins on the ‘glorious twelfth’ of August, but that’s only when red grouse and common snipe are ready and plentiful enough for the dinner table. The rest of the season unfolds slowly over the following weeks, so it’s not until mid-to-late September that you can source enough wild protein to make a decent multi-course spread.
Because no trip to Ramsbottom is complete without black pudding in some form
Gourmet game dinners and other seasonal food and wine matching events are where independently owned places of a certain standing like Hearth of the Ram really excel. Locals and regulars often book well in advance to be among the first to enjoy the locally sourced Autumnal abundance prepared by award-winning head Chef Abdulla 'Naz' Naseem.
Hearth’s owner Euan Watkins spends a long time matching the wines to each course, often handpicking them from lesser-known independent winemakers. The gently spoken silver fox is the perfect host, making sure themed dinners are relaxed affairs where guests can enjoy the food and learn more about food and wine pairings and where the ingredients originated from.
Hearth of the RamWe were invited to one of two popular seven course game dinners that have become an annual fixture on the HotR event calendar. They didn’t bat an eyelid when I brought along a gluten-intolerant guest at the last minute. While she was enjoying off-menu potted shrimps, I tucked into the official first course – two miniature game pies with a shot of local Rammy craft ale.
Euan and his wife Dena have just taken Naz to Spain to research their upcoming La Rioja Alta gourmet dinner on 8 October, which I suspect inspired the next course, a rabbit croquette with caramelised garlic puree and a bean cassoulet. As a series of red wines had been chosen to accompany the next few choices, Euan decided upon a Fleurie, Domaine Pardon, Grand Vin de Beaujolais 2014; light enough to start the proceedings and sharp enough to cut through the smoky rich stewed beans perfectly.
Game Pie and a shot of localBreast of Bowland wood pigeon came next on a luxuriously comforting food pillow of wild mushroom, parmesan and truffle risotto. To match this course, ‘Are you Game?’, an Australian Pinot Noir from a slightly eccentric producer in Victoria; the tannin structure, oaky influences and autumnal fruit notes made a great match for the meaty pigeon.
Next, a pleasant pheasant breast with black pudding bon bon (because no trip to Ramsbottom is complete without black pudding in some form) broad beans and game jus. The accompanying South African Pinotage ‘Printer’s Ink’ turned out to be my favourite pick of the evening (with me glugging back and forth often, just to check).
Cumbrian Venison with a satisfying wedge of Savoy cabbage, potato dauphinoise, roast honeyed parsnip puree and juniper chocolate sauce provided perfect fodder for another wine from the eccentric Victorian producer, a Shiraz, gloriously named ‘Ladies who Shoot their Lunch.’
Pleasant pheasant
Catch the pigeonTime for something less meaty and the pastry chef had cleverly chosen to cleanse our palates with a lip-pursing sherberty late harvest raspberry sorbet and a silky white chocolate mousse. ‘Avondale’, a blush-hued, silky South African Muscat Blanc slipped down a treat alongside it.
Just when you thought it might be over, Lancashire’s impressive answer to Stilton, Stichelton arrived with a cranberry and walnut scone and a shot of Pocas Ruby Port.
SticheltonAfter dinner, Euan told us about other annual events including champagne tastings (a Perrier Jouet Gourmet Dinner Menu has been scheduled for 27 November), seafood menus, barbecues, beer festivals and regular homages to various culinary regions.
If keen, make sure you wear your ‘eating trousers’ and order a taxi back home.
Hearth Of The Ram, 13 Peel Brow, Ramsbottom, Bury, Lancashire, BLO OAA. 01706 828 681.
Open: Mon - Thu 12.00 pm-12.00 am, Fri - Sun 12.00 pm-1.00 am.
To hear more about events at Hearth of the Ram, email info@hearthoftheram.com to be included on their mailing list.
