VEGGIE bistro, 1847, is the only upmarket veggie in the city centre. For almost three years it’s been a resounding hit and owner, Damien Davenport, has gone for gold by landing his second outlet in Chorlton.
Kim’s chocolate torte performed solidly, melting creamily in the mouth, sexy with cherries and rich, foragey Black Forest flavours.
As this area is the natural habitat of organic co-ops and men who wear brown rice as Cologne, the restaurant was obviously rammed on a chilly Tuesday - but more to the point, the food was better than I expected.
Both Damien’s restaurants are named after the year the Vegetarian Society was founded (by the way the Society was dreamt up and created in Manchester and found its home in the area). Cooking at the new branch is similar to the original, which should please fans.
1847 Vegetarian Restaurant
I was particularly fond of the juniper cake created by original city centre head chef Wendy Swetnam (whose since left, taking her lovely cake with her) but dishes like baked cheese or veggie black pudding bon bon remain on a par with - or an edge above – the cooking at the city centre.
I’d even go as far as suggesting the food is comparable to, if not better than, Didsbury’s Greens which remains the standard by which Manchester veggie restaurants are judged.
In fact, the décor's a triumph too.
Swooping across the ceiling like dancers, peach white drapes flounce over the venue’s past life as a retail outlet. Tables huddle below. Oatmeal chairs are soft to the cheek and there’s a special 'private dining' bit lined in library-effect wallpaper. It made me think of somewhere Ron and Hermione from Harry Potter might get it on, somewhere like the back room at the Portico Library which oozes a secretive magic.
1847 Vegetarian Restaurant
For those who are not yet converts, expect better than snoozy veggie standards from the a la carte. Sweet potato, apple and chilli fritters with lime dressing or salt and pepper tofu with peanut sauce are typically punchy starters, while mains take in everything from herb gnocchi with spinach and basil cream to battered halloumi with mushy peas and hand-cut chips.
According to a couple of intrepid veggies I know, battered halloumi is also house special at Brighton’s acclaimed Terre a Terre vegetarian restaurant. And while this smacks of out and out copying, it’s the kind of dish that even non-veggies like; a clever business move on Damien’s part perhaps.
Talking of non-veggies, I took lapsed vegan Kim along for the ride and we mulled over the issue of eating out when you are a vegetarian as she swigged the house Shiraz. Indeed, tasty nutrition it can be a bit of a challenge when faced with your standard risotto or goats cheese options.
Kim By The Window: mystery girl
Which is just one reason why starters like Kim’s mild mustard slaw with veggie black pudding bon bons (£4) was such a treat. Akin to tiny scotch eggs, it came with a richly savoury, celery-type flavour, tiny ‘shallot rings’ (like wedding-ring sized onion rings) perched on top.
Testing the cheese route, I had a smoked fromage and mushroom gratin (£4), a dish packing the kind of sense-shaking flavour punch I used to crave when I was meat free. The downside was that the chef had gone bonkers with the peppercorns; I must’ve popped pretty much a palmful out of my mouth like chipped teeth.
“Sexy, Ruth,” Kim said, between pops.
Lacking the flair you'll find at Indian vegetarians like Bradford’s Prashad, my chickpea curry reminded me of the ones my mum used to make to use up pumpkins. Nice soft flavours with nothing too challenging or, indeed, recognisable. We munched on airy onion rings and mused over what was missing. Homemade naan perhaps, or some fragrant chutneys.
Kim got lost in memories of London’s Rasa and we touched on the subject of Altrincham’s excellent Indian, Dilli. But comparisons with ‘real’ Asian restaurants seem unfair. I can see why they’ve got a curry on a vegetarian menu as it’s an alternative to ubiquitous cheese and carries flavour well. Sure, it could’ve been more of one thing or another (Thai, south Indian, whatever) but Kim’s baked cheese more than made up for any failings.
Shaped like a cheese space ship or surveillance drone, this delicious triangle was part soufflé, part quiche and all divine. What I really liked about it was that it was a whole meal that really tasted of cheese for once, rather than the meek flavours often associated with sauces and soufflés and it came with a light chutney smear, potatoes and greens.
1847 Vegetarian Restaurant
In fact, the meal was cheap as dinners go. Starters and desserts cost just £4 while mains are £10 each and you can order children’s portions for half price. To test the kitchen, I tried a child’s sticky toffee pudding with thyme custard for dessert which, for just £2, was extraordinary value - even if the thyme had been held up somewhere on route.
Kim’s chocolate torte performed solidly, melting creamily in the mouth, sexy with cherries and rich, foragey Black Forest flavours. Service was good and, like I say, it was surprisingly cosy inside. Ideal, I reckon, for an affordable supper in what can be a pricey part of town.
You can follow Ruth Allan on Twitter here @RuthAllan.
ALL SCORED CONFIDENTIAL REVIEWS ARE IMPARTIAL AND PAID FOR BY THE MAGAZINE.
Bistro 1847, 123 Manchester Road, Chorlton, M21 9PG. Tel: 0161 862 9557. Click here.
Rating 14/20
Food: 7/10 (gratin 6.5, bon bons 7, curry 6, baked cheese 9, sticky toffee 6.5, chocolate torte 7) )
Service 3.5/5
Ambience 3.5/5
1847 Vegetarian Restaurant
1847 Vegetarian Restaurant
