11 Dishes You Really Should Try This Month

Confidentials 9 June 2016

THE REGION'S food and booze scene has provided plenty to get excited about this past month.

...apparently they have almost come to blows sourcing the best spuds for chipping

Both Gordon Ramsay and Jean-Christophe Novelli are said to be on the hunt for restaurants in the area, a Cheshire pub was crowned the very best in the land, whilst a curious new French'ish type boozer, Man Bites Frog, with silent cinema screenings and actual frogs legs opened in, well, where else? Chorlton.

But nothing delighted our lot quite like the opening of Tapeo, the latest Spanish gaff to infiltrate Deansgate and its environs. In total, a record five dishes were put forward this month for Tapeo (we picked two), with Confidential's food writers gushing over its Meloso de Bogavante, its Huevos Rotos, and its Berenjena Frita.

¡Ay, caramba! Anyone would think they're paying us...

RESTAURANT BAR & GRILL - Salt Baked Beets

Gordo found himself dining out with a vegetarian for the second time this year, at The Restaurant Bar and Grill on John Dalton Street. So, he tried, with some trepidation, a dish called ‘Salt Baked Beets' for £7.50. It was actually rather special. And while a six-hour lunch out in the sun on the terrace of RBG can sway one’s judgment, it does need to be pointed out that the Fat One was only two glasses in at this point

The beets were darlings, a couple or three different varieties, presumably baked in the Josper oven and left to cool then served with some charming greens. They cleanse the palette and giggle with the addition of a good dry white burgundy (Gordo was pushing the boat out with a Chassagne Montrachet, though the heathen veggie across the table didn’t like it). Great summer dish this. Gordo

14 John Dalton St, Manchester M2 6JR.

IBERICA – Cherry Gazpacho

For a city that’s been whimpering about its dearth of Michelin stars for some time, the collision of seven stars in Spinningfields is a fairly big deal... if you like that sort of thing. Luckily we do, so were invited to Iberica to sample seven courses from two Spanish compatriots, the three Michelin starred chef Nacho Manzano - who runs four restaurants in the Asturias, as well as heading up the Iberica chain – and his pal, Quique Dacosta, who only has four.

What followed was a bequiling banquet of peculiarities such as a tomato crackers, ‘Lemon Fish’ (served in an actual lemon) and ‘Ashes Rice’ which came accompanied by a four page long recipe card. Still, it was a simple gazpacho that trumped the lot. Well, not so simple, actually, the traditional tomatoes being replaced by the season’s first cherries in a deep, soupy Sangrai red, encircled by a colourful medley of prawns, herbs and fish roe happily skipping ring a ring o’ roses around the rim. Sweet, silky, fresh and only available at Iberica for a couple more weeks. Hurry. This is special. David Blake

14-15 The Avenue, Manchester M3 3HF

ALBERT SQUARE CHOP HOUSE – Eccles Cakes

You can understand how the Puritans, after banning dancing on the village green at Eccles, also prohibited the eating of cakes at religious festivals. Eccles folk went on baking and eating them undercover. By the 19th century the green had gone and only two shops in the town were were selling their speciality. Who’d’ve thunk it nowadays these spicy golden discs of flaky pastry with their cargo of ‘squashed flies’ (aka raisins) are posh restaurant fodder? Albert’s pairs them tangily with another Lancashire stalwart, Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire. Neil Sowerby

Albert Square Chop House, Memorial Hall, 14 Albert Square, Manchester M2 5PF

TAPEO – Meloso rice with lobster

Meloso de Bogavante sounds like a character from Don Quixote. Not so. This lobster and rice combo is the creamier cousin of Paella, signature dish of Valencia, home town of Tapeo owners Natalia and Nacho Esquerdo. That Spanish classic isn’t ready until the heat is turned up on the wide, shallow metal pan, creating that toasty, crackly rice crust underneath they call socarrat. In contrast, Meloso style rice is slightly sloppy (almost, whisper it softly, risotto-like). Tapeo’s Meloso ticks the box gorgeously, generous with the lobster, whose carapace forms the base for its intense stock, saffron, pimiento and tomato adding their headiness. Neil Sowerby

209 Deansgate, Manchester M3 3NW

Huevos Rotos

Another one from Tapeo here. This place actually nearly slipped under my radar, among the armada of Spanish restaurants that have opened recently, but I’m glad it hasn’t. ‘Huevos Rotos’ is a dish which illustrates that even the most humble ingredients can be elevated to culinary royalty (don’t tell me The Queen doesn’t enjoy egg and chips sometimes.) This one simple dish has all the minerals, vitamins, carbohydrates and protein you’d ever need. A fried duck egg, runny and rich, laid on top of deliciously crispy golden chips (apparently they have almost come to blows sourcing the best spuds for chipping) with delicious chorizo (with a special story of origin of its own) and hard fried Padron peppers. If you do the rounds with a tapas dish or two in each of Manchester’s Spanish restaurants, choose this one here. Deanna Thomas

209 Deansgate, Manchester M3 3NW.

SAN CARLO FUMO - Mediterranean Fish Carpacci

We went along to San Carlo Fumo on Oxford Road to investigate their new midweek Apertivo cocktail deal and thought we may as well try some dishes from the new menu while we were there. Along came a gorgeous plate of Mediterranean fish carpacci - raw fish and seafood which had been lightly cured in lemon juice and fresh herbs. It had been scattered with a mirepoix (diced veg to you) and balsamic vinegar pearls and was delicious. I felt so virtuous and full of low fat protein all the way home, I have no idea what possessed me to dive into steak pudding, chips and peas later that night. I think they might have put something in those cocktails which made me do it. Alcohol probably. Deanna Thomas

St Peters Square, 1 St Peter's Square, Manchester M1 5AN

HAWKSMOOR - Shortrib Nuggets with Kimchi Ketchup

These short rib nuggets are served as part of a new classics celebration menu at Hawksmoor. Each course is matched with a wine, chosen by owner Will Beckett’s mum, the famous national wine columnist Fiona Beckett. It's a feast alright, with a sticky hunks of Tamworth pork belly, scallops, steak two ways, a map of sauces - and these perfect bites. The crumb is crisp, the beef perfectly moist. In the centre is melting Ogleshield cheese; a bit like raclette, only with cheddary, British personality. The kimchi ketchup bringing a touch of class to what’s essentially a grown up take on McDonalds. Ruth Allan

184 Deansgate, Manchester M3 3WB

NORTHERN SOUL - Grilled Cheese Fish Finger Butty

I’ve banged on about the virtues of Northern Soul’s grilled cheese sarnies multiple times on these pages. But things have changed. They’ve added fish fingers and that’s a game changer. Not those poncey gastropub fish fingers served with Jenga chips either, but the packet fingers you’d trough down with potato smiley faces and Heinz beans in front of Pat Sharp’s Fun House whilst mum hoovered up round your feet. Served with rocket, tartar sauce and soul. Belting. David Blake

Northern Soul, Church Street Market, Northern Quarter, M4 1PN

YUZU - Daikon and Wakame Salad

There’s nothing I like better at Toji (winter solstice) than to slip into an Onsen (hot spring bath) for a quick Yuzu-yu (soak in yuzu juice infused water). Afterwards, clad in a yakata, I savour the traditional accompaniment of Azuki-gayu (rice gruel with red beans) and pumpkin. OK, I’ve never actually done this but, as an ardent admirer of Japanese ritual, would like to someday. In the meantime I make do with sporadic visits to Yuzu, where I recently tried a wonderfully subtle daikon and sweet wakame seaweed salad (£3.30), dressed in yuzu, this was a gorgeous accompaniment to a large mixed plate of sashimi for £19.99 featuring scallop, tuna, organic salmon and sweet prawn as fresh as, well, a dash of yuzu or a slug of Hitachino Nest Beer Weizen. Neil Sowerby

39 Faulkner St, Manchester M1 4EE

ZOUK - Meat Tiffin

Decontructed kebab for lunch? Sticky, tandoori-style beef, yoghurt-marinaded chicken and a tub of hummus, served with a half an airy naan and a side salad. We needn't say more. Spot on. Ruth Allan

Unit 5, The Quadrangle, Chester St, Manchester, Lancashire M1 5QS

ANCOATS COFFEE COMPANY - Roast Lamb

Lovely venue to enjoy a lovely dish, although it's a bit of a cheat to include as it was from a guest spot by local chef Robert Owen Brown. Still, the roast lamb loin plus slow braised mutton with capers and baked artichoke tasted as good as it sounds. Artichoke is one of the great greens and not used enough in dishes, but here it combined perfectly with the lamb. This was outstanding cooking mingled with fine creativity. Shame about the photo. Jonathan Schofield

Unit 9, Royal Mills, 17 Redhill Street, Ancoats, M4 5BA.