Promotion
SOMETIMES a glance through a restaurant's website can lead you way off-course. We arrived at Street On 1st at the INNSIDE Manchester hotel expecting 'a contemporary approach to Spanish dishes' based on 'the Mediterranean traditions of sharing experiences' – because that's how the INNSIDE website describes it.
What we got was another thing entirely. A different continent. A different style of eating. A different level of quality. We thought we'd be getting a slick European version of casual dining, reflective of the four-star hotel's slick European style. We actually received the kind of Japanese-influenced gourmet experience associated with the likes of Australasia.
(You're much better checking the more accurate www.streeton1st.com rather than the hotel's website, for a sense of what the restaurant is really about.)
Given that the head chef is David Spanner this made perfect sense. This talented, globe-trotting chef, who honed his craft in San Francisco and Barcelona, is known for favouring global cuisine. His new menu – launched this month – at Street On 1st reflects that.
In fairness to the hotel website's off-kilter description, there were some Spanish influences in the starters and you could share them, if you like. But the Eastern 'umami' flavours were much more apparent. A wise move we think, given the tapas mountain fast forming on Deansgate. We say step away from the padron peppers for a night and try this instead. You will be mightily impressed.
Starters
Pork Wontons
A flavour hit to start the meal on a high. These were very light with a soft, melting centre of pork flavoured with garlic and coriander. The miso dipping sauce set them off nicely.
Chicken Skewers
Excellent quality meat was a theme throughout this meal. Here the satisfying cuts of chicken breast were garnished with spring onion and sesame seeds and served with sweet chilli sauce – mop it up, it's delicious.
Beef Mushroom Skewers
Tender, seared beef interspersed with shiitake mushrooms which were a meaty delight in themselves. The umami flavours dominated this dish, thanks to the daki stock. The chilli hit made it satisfying on several levels.
Beef Carpaccio
Complex but complementing flavours made this dish stand out. The beef came from an Angus fillet flavoured with coriander seeds, fennel seeds, and orange and lemon zest. The shaved parmesan and hijiki (black seaweed) garnish gave it a saltiness, while the creamy, tangy mayonnaise added to the excitement.
Beetroot, Feta and Watermelon Salad
From the 'Eat Clean' part of their menu, this was a very pretty dish to be eaten mindfully, focusing on the fabulous combinations of flavours. The pine nuts, basil, feta, and 'balsamic pearls' formed a kind of deconstructed pesto, while the perfect circles of different varieties of beetroot made you appreciate how good this vegetable can be when not drowned in pickling vinegar.
Mains
Crispy Pork Belly with Mojo Sauce
Another wow dish and one we'll be reminiscing about for weeks to come. The pork was sous vide cooked for tenderness while the crispy top of fat was too hard to resist. The 'apple salad' was beautifully presented – discs, dices and a clear apple gel – this is labour-intensive stuff. A puree of carrot and ginger, and a citrusy, dark mojo sauce hit the right notes.
Roasted Duck Leg with Red Cabbage and Butternut Squash
Spanner puts a great deal of thought into all elements of these dishes – from the dry spice marinade for the duck leg, to the Iberican ham used in the duck and red cabbage croquette, to the light seasoning of thyme and shallot in the butternut squash. The grain mix of fennel, pumpkin seeds, quinoa, oats and honey was a good touch, giving a grounding, umami hit to this rich dish.
Steak Sandwich with Fries
A rump cut done medium rare made a hearty filling for this very tasty sandwich. The onion jam and beef tomatoes added sweetness and juiciness, while the chimmichurri dip turned the fries into an event in themselves.
Desserts
Buttermilk and Vanilla Panna Cotta
This dish is designed to remind you of playing outside as a child, but our back garden never looked half as pretty as this. There were lots of lovely little surprises to explore on this plate – berries, meringues, chocolate brownie crumb, and edible flowers (does anyone really eat these?). But the best bit was the creamy, vanilla-infused panna cotta – made with buttermilk for a depth that this mild dessert often lacks. Perfect.
Chocolate Banana and Salted Caramel
A dreamy dessert which we wish we could eat again, right now, and every day for the rest of our lives. The deep fried banana was lightly battered and gooey inside. The nutty brownie had little bits of cinder toffee inside for a surprise crunch. And the salted caramel ice cream was perched on a disc of set caramel. And in case you're wondering, yes, you can eat the stones. They're made of chocolate.
Street on 1st is at Innside Manchester, 1 First Street, Manchester, M15 4RP. 0161 200 2510.
