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Sometimes you fancy a drive out somewhere for a meal. You definitely want good food, you’ll need the opportunity to savour a quality drink (or two if you’re the one in the passenger seat) and perhaps even a nice view. But the warm glow of a log fire and feel-good effects of a satisfying feed can wear off when you’re stuck bumper to bumper on an A road by an industrial estate, so you don’t always want to venture too far. Finding a place that ticks all those boxes can take some doing, and we’re pretty pleased with ourselves because we’ve done it.
The Dining Room is more of an evening destination for food lovers
To be fair, The White Hart at Lydgate near Oldham has been around for twenty years. In fact there’s been an inn on the site since 1788, and parts of the original stone-built inn still exist, but it’s their continued high standards which keep several generations of customers coming back.
The White Hart has been seamlessly divided into several different areas, each with a slightly different mood. Two of the four rooms are devoted to The Brasserie – the heartbeat of the inn; a more traditional and rustic bar area serving food in front of two cosy open fires. There’s also the versatile Oak Room suitable for larger events for up to 220 and The Library private room.
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We were keen to learn more about The Dining Room Restaurant and Cocktail Bar, a relatively new addition to The White Hart built in 2015. Chef Mike Shaw started his career at La Manoir Quat Saisons under Raymond Blanc and has worked at esteemed kitchens including Hambleton Hall and Aubergine in London. He was also Richard Neats’ sous chef in France and worked at Gilpin Lodge in Windermere, during the period it gained its first Michelin star. Mike was appointed head chef at The White Hart in 2011, thanks to a desire to return to his nearby Greenfield roots.
It is immediately apparent from the cool grey tones and silver chrome light fittings that The Dining Room is more of an evening destination for food lovers (food is served Wednesday - Saturday 6.30pm - 9.30pm.) The well stocked bar offers a variety of premium drinks and clever seasonal cocktails to set the scene and whet the appetite. The bar area is also a perfect alternative for those stopping off for a cocktail before heading into Manchester (Greenfields station is only ten minutes away) as opposed to settling for a pint in the pub area.
The Dining Room menu changes regularly according to availability, the seasons and whatever inspiration has tickled Chef Mike and his team that week. Guests can choose from the a la carte menu or indulge in a seven course tasting menu (£55) with matching flight of wines (£80) carefully chosen from their collection of over 200 different bottles.
Cornish crab with mango and compressed watermelon
At this time of year, a typical tasting menu might begin with a Jerusalem artichoke velouté with winter truffle, followed by Cornish crab with mango and compressed watermelon. General manager Ian Howard paired this with a Spanish Gewürztraminer. The distinctive lychee characteristics came with an acidity which worked perfectly alongside the aromatic richness on the plate.
Perhaps it’s The White Hart’s proximity to the Pennines, but game is a speciality. Our next course was roast breast and confit leg of squab pigeon with Morteau sausage and Umbrian lentil casserole which was perfectly paired with ‘Cool Coast’, a Pinot Noir produced on the Chilean coast with fruity berry flavours.
After this, we enjoyed a stunning fish dish; crispy skinned line-caught Scottish sea bass on mussel broth with squid and smoked broccoli puree. Ian had paired this with a Picpoul de Pinet made in the south of France from local coastal grapes. Its typically citrussy acidity and full bodied aroma worked beautifully with the seafood and buttery rich sauce.
Sea bass on mussel broth with squid and smoked broccoli puree
After the fish, it was time for more game. If an Autumnal walk in the forest could be transformed into a dish, it would be this extravaganza of seasonal tastes and textures; loin of venison with beer braised red cabbage, chanterelle mushrooms, fruit and seeds. This was paired with Cairanne, from southern Rhone made from a mixture of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan grapes which had a beautifully rounded blackberry syrup flavour that would work just as well with food as it would enjoyed on its own.
We’d heard that Chef Mike trained as a pastry chef, so we suspect might have been showing off a little with desserts – lucky us. Passion fruit brillat savarin cheesecake was topped with a glossy tropical fruit layer and served with a smooth and intensely flavoured banana sorbet. Sticky caramelised tart tatin of pear was complimented by a silky pear and vanilla sorbet. Finally, we were lucky enough to have a little taste of the popular salted caramel tart from the a la carte menu – a perfectly creamy set custard in a pastry case.
Sticky caramelised pear tart tatin with pear and vanilla sorbet
The food, wine and surroundings of The White Hart Lydgate continue to exceed our expectations. It’s rare to find a place which puts as much effort into pub brasserie dishes as they do with their fine dining menu. After making a very small, but enjoyable dent in their impressive wine list, we’d highly recommend that when you visit, just remember that they also have rooms.
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