What to eat: BAB's flat iron steak kebab

BAB's dish of the month could become one of our dishes of the year. Hell, let's make it the decade. Unless something truly remarkable happens to food in the next ten years, we're baggsying it a place on that list.

The dish we're talking about is their flat iron steak kebab. It's filled with pink tranches of tender beef that wouldn't look out of place in a high-end grill restaurant. And yet, good as it was, the steak was the least exciting thing about this kebab.

Let's start with the dollops of white stuff that looked like Hellmann's. We expected mayonnaise. What we got was whipped blue cheese and truffle. Puréed together, it was a complex, creamy and earthy delight – a real surprise for the taste buds. Someone should sell this stuff in jars.

Next, the dollops of pink stuff – beetroot of course. It was another deep, earthy flavour that made our eyes open a little wider. The dilemma now was which sauce, pink or white, to smear over the steak.

Also on the plate were sweet pickled raisins, a scattering of walnuts, and balsamic onions – smaller and softer than the pickled variety and without the sharpness.

This was all served on a bed of peppery watercress with BAB's home-made flat bread as the base. It was thin enough to roll up like a pancake and it had a distinct smoky flavour that complemented the steak and sauces.

When we first saw the menu description for this dish, we thought it sounded too much. All those big, gutsy flavours: blue cheese, watercress, truffle, balsamic onions. We imagined all the ingredients competing for attention and stamping all over the steak.

But that wasn't the case. Everything worked together really well – BAB's chefs have shaped this storm of ingredients into something balanced and harmonious. Eating this dish made us momentarily very happy, and you can't really ask for more from your lunch than that.

BAB describes its food as 'kebabs worth sitting down for'. That's true but this one in particular can have a standing ovation.