I THINK tea leaf overload prompted my esteemed editor to channel me to sample Tea 42.
I’m not sure how big a gluten-free gap in the market there is, but I’m happy this particular dietary regime is being catered for. I’d just prefer the white leather to go the way of the wheat.
While he was assessing the Assam at hot Propertea in the Cathedral Visitors Centre I was consigned to another cuppa-pun venue up on High Street across the tramway from the Arndale’s fragrant fish market.
Tea 42, High Street
A major selling point of Tea 42 (ouch), set in the former premises of the gent’s outfitters from hell, is its gluten-free emphasis. Consequently, the city’s Hollinwood-based print organ sent a wheat allergy sufferer to inspect. He was impressed – especially with the bread, the difficult bit.
My approach was more oblique – based on same editor’s decision to despatch a non-beer drinker to review the Robinson’s Brewery Visitor Centre Cafe (like a eunuch in a brothel, she did brave the ale-flavoured ice cream, mind).
I don’t do cake or tea much, but was buoyed by the presence on the menu of booze and savoury mains featuring gluten, which helped me on arrival to overcome the menacing sight of white leather banquettes (think 47 King Street West and its dowdy ilk) and wall shadow cut-outs reminiscent of old school Indian restaurants called Moghul Dynasty or Amritsar Palace. Is it the glam outpost the edge of the Northern Quarter has been crying out for – or a World of Leather showroom?
Cut-out the cut-outs
Three-tier constructions of cakes and delicate sandwiches passing by looked impressive, but, as with the array of 'speciality hand-blended teas' named Detox Bang Bang and Storm in a D Cup, we passed and doggedly pursued lunchtime meat and alcohol.
Sourcing looks good, as you’d expect from head chef Martin Small, once of Lyme Park. So for my companion, Ruth, the Great North Pie Co’s Ham, Pea ‘n’ Tea was an obvious choice; I chose the belly pork (main photo) from a limited mains menu (it’s obviously not the major concern here; built to maintain a diner flow between breakfast, afternoon tea and beyond).
The online menu spiel is a bit mouthy, but then the owners, who run a successful aparthotel business, do plan to 'roll out' their Tea 42 concept big-time nationally from this prototype, so the talk has to be talked.
Still, there’s no excuse for: 'unique main dining options crafted only from fresh local ingredients mixed with an edgy style and just a sprinkling of humour'. None of which was apparent in the pork (£11.50) and pie (£10.95) – both of which were excellent, if uncomplicated.
Ham and pea pie (£10.95)
The pork belly was fibrous and unfatty with crunchy crackling and you felt the honey presence in the accompanying root veg; the ham and pea pie was mite salty, but the pastry was crispy and the tea chutney from Galore! matched well, along with mushy peas, naturally.
The drinks list boasts the biggest selection of gluten-free beers in the north, mostly sourced from Belgium, while tea – Earl Grey and green – features in the cocktail list.
But I wanted to check out the wine, available by the glass in three sizes, there's three whites and three reds. Nobilo’s Drylands Pinot Noir from Marlborough in New Zealand was the priciest at £10.95 for a 250ml glass. I went for the cheaper 175cl. Unfortunately, it lacked any obvious Pinot qualities, if you discount a lingering earthiness.
Ruth fared little better with her 'signature cocktail' adventure, the Champagne Tea (£9.75), a tricolour flute of berry tea, chambord and champagne as topping was sweet and insipid.
Chicken skewers (£6.95)
Starters were a dull bunch. My piri piri chicken skewers (£6.95) lacked any chilli heat, or any kind of taste, while a tiny pot of tomato, red onion and lime salsa salad offered even less oomph. Sad.
More Galore! chutney and 'artisan toasted shards' accompanied Ruth’s venison and chicken liver pâté starter (£7.50). Gamey and grainy under its cap of fat, it was hardly beyond gastropub staple level.
By the way, an artisan bakers selection of (gluten-free) breads with balsamic vinegar, olive oil was available at a whopping £4.95. Could 'artisan' and 'craft' as vague nods to quality be retired now please? Though, I am in favour of little poems inscribed in the toilets in praise of the whole catering operation.
Poem
We should have gone for a pud, but the plan is to return for afternoon tea and see if the sweets and cakes are the real deal – lunch wasn’t quite. By then our waiter, at a quiet time of the day, might have remembered to bring over the second round of drinks we ordered (we didn’t raise the issue and weren’t charged).
I’m not sure how big a gluten-free gap in the market there is, but I’m happy this particular dietary regime is being catered for. I’d just prefer the white leather to go the way of the wheat.
You can follow Neil Sowerby on Twitter @AntonEgoManc
ALL SCORED CONFIDENTIAL REVIEWS ARE IMPARTIAL AND PAID FOR BY THE MAGAZINE.
Tea 42, 58 High Street, Manchester, M4 1EF. Tel: 0800 043 42 42
More info here.
Rating: 12/20 (remember venues are rated against the best examples of their type - see yellow box below)
Food and Drinks: 7/10
Service: 3/5
Ambience: 2/5
Window cakes
Tea 42 bar
Champagne Tea
