I FANCIED a Disco Ball and got a Balloon. But I don’t care. I’m high on lemongrass essence and my voice is even higher as the helium filling kicks in. Order signature cocktail The One With The Balloon, as I did, then you might just fancy a second and it’ll be a while before you want to exit the Red Door.
You know the one. Streetside it’s got that faded speakeasy, you’ll easily miss me kind of look. Go down the stairs from Deansgate, though, and discover this amazing cocktail bolthole featuring the Jamie Green artwork called Red Door that used to hang in Tim Bacon’s house. This basement bar was a pet project of the late Living Ventures mover and shaker, opening just after he passed away this year.
Sentimental reasons for this location? Well, yes. it was once JW Johnsons, the legendary venue Tim founded with Dave Hinds back in the Nineties. It was a groundbreaker then and it’s certainly easy on the eye and easy on the palate for today’s cocktail hunters.
The Disco Ball is the piece de resistance – a £90 sharer where the huge ball is filled with Ketel One Vodka, Licor 43, L&O mix, apple and cranberry juices topped with a bottle of Prosecco.
My Balloon tipple was more modesty priced at £8 but shared the same fun factor across a list generated by ‘Blue’ Jones, cocktail guru for the chain that has further outlets in Liverpool and Chester. in truth, infused balloon aside, it’s quite a simple concoction blending more Ketel One with home-made rhubarb syrup and rhubarb liqueur, lightened with egg white and custard essence. Dessert in a glass, it’s a playful nod to Blue’s nephew Toby and hismoove of rhubarb and custard (and presumably balloons).
Five further cocktails confirmed the mixological wizardry of the young Welshman. Here’s our verdict:
Mrs Jones: Another family inspiration behind this grapefruit-based refresher was the childhood breakfast habit of sprinkling sugar on a half of the aforementioned fruit. This drink is altogether more sophisticated and less sweet. Fresh grapefruit juice, elderflower Tanqueray gin, Aperol juice and lemon combine tangily.
South Beach Sour: No Miami-based relatives were involved in making this Sunshine State beach babe that transports you beyond the twilight basement setting. Just the perfect ingredients – Cocchi Americano (the base for 007’s Vesper Martini), passionfruit syrup, lemon juice and egg white
Big Dill: This souped up G&T offers watermelon two ways, syrup and slice, exotic amaranth and a sprig of aromatic dill.
Lost In Translation: We still remember the chemistry between Scarlett Johannson and Bill Murray in the Tokyo-set movie, but it’s matched by this cocktail courtship between two oriental classics – Lapsang Souchong reduced to a syrup and Nikka barrel-aged whisky, stirred with mineral water and orange bitter. Love at first taste.
Old Smokey: Blue gets to show off here with his smoke gun. The oak hit of the Woodford Reserve is a classic bourbon showstopper. Perfect mellow nightcap after a long evening chill-out in the Red Door.
The Red Door, 78 Deansgate, Manchester M3 2FW. 78 Deansgate, Manchester M3 2FW. 0161 832 2808. http://reddoor.uk.com. Open 7pm-2am, Sunday-Thursday, 5pm and until 3am on Fridays and Saturdays.
Live music on Thursday & Fridays at 8-10pm & DJ Friday & Saturdays 10pm-3am