AS PICCADILLY Gardens soon waves goodbye to one Japanese institution, another takes its place - one we expect will prove somewhat more popular than Tadao Ando’s lambasted concrete wall. Shoryu Ramen opens for the first time outside London today; serving up authentic cuisine focused on the Hakata region of Kyushu Island. 

Mimi is one of only a handful of sake sommeliers in Britain

Steaming bowls of tonkotsu ramen, made with imported flour and specially created by Exec Chef Kanji Furukawa, is the menu staple; a creamy twelve-hour pork broth topped with char siu barbecue pork belly, nitamago egg, kikurage mushrooms, spring onion, sesame, ginger and nori seaweed. It’s delicious and surprisingly filling - served with a wooden ladle that my attempts to master amused two Japanese men waiting outside no end (fortunately they have westerner-friendly cutlery if you decide to cheat).

Other Shoryu favourites include their signature fluffy steamed buns, testunabe gyoza, a range of tempura and sashimi and mochi ice cream.

Tonkotsu ramenTonkotsu ramen

The 55-cover restaurant is Shoryu Ramen’s seventh branch - not counting a dedicated ramen takeout bar on London’s Air Street - and is something of a homecoming for the chain’s owner Tak Tokumine, who is also CEO of the Japan Centre. Having first moved here after emigration, he set up the centre’s first branch in Manchester and still has strong family ties. 

Speaking of which, his niece Mimi is one of only a handful of sake sommeliers in Britain. Sake will feature alongside whisky and umeshu (plum liquor) in a range of cocktails, as well as a three-strong Gekkeikan flight. Local beers are represented via brands such as Kirin, Asahi and Musashino. 

As per contemporary Japanese aesthetics, the interior is light and minimalist; accented with calligraphic paper lanterns, sleek redwood tables and pottery in shades of red, black and white. Even the toilet door wall is authentic, displaying a typical Hakata pattern of wood and stone, while chefs cook ramen to order in an open theatre kitchen. 

The restaurant is offering half price ramen until November 20 and 50% off cocktails from 21-28 November. 

Here’s how it looks:

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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