Harley Young visits Simon Rogan’s farm for the ultimate field-to-fork experience
Prior to this trip, I’d previously visited Simon Rogan’s idyllic countryside growing patch, Our Farm, on a brisk morning back in early March of this year as part of a stay at the beautiful L’Enclume bedrooms in picturesque Cartmel Village. So it was a real privilege to be back on an equally brisk early October morning to see just how much had changed.
The vegetables that had been growing just seven months ago were but a distant memory, in their place stood seasonal autumnal produce like squash and different types of pumpkin in an array of colours, shapes and sizes.
One instantly recognisable thing that had remained the same though, was Simon’s team’s unwavering passion and dedication.
Our Farm, the sustainable growing hub that provides all of Simon Rogan’s UK restaurants and menu collaborations with a good portion of their produce, works hard to keep the emissions down by using year-round growing methods that allows the restaurants’ menus to evolve with each season.
The aim is to ‘grow near perfect produce in a natural and sustainable way’ and growers and chefs work side-by-side to learn more about the ingredients served and how they set the restaurant apart.
We were welcomed warmly by members of the restaurant team, who greeted us with a lemonade flavoured and garnished with Shiso (Perilla) leaves which had turned the drink a bright fuschia colour.
After saying a quick hello to ginger tabbies ‘One’ and ‘Two’, the newly adopted pair of semi-stray barn cats that had settled in nicely and made the farm their home, Farmer John Rowlands and Our Farm Head Chef Liam Fitzpatrick began a tour of the grounds, starting “at the end of the cycle” - the composting bins - as its “just as important” as the beginning.
John explained that Simon likes to create as little waste as possible, placing any leftover food from the restaurants into large on-site composters so that they can be used again to feed the plants sustainably.
“We go down to the restaurants a few times a week to collect the used cooking oil in these blue barrels,” explained John, adding that the oil is sent to a facility where it’s recycled and bought back at a high cost once turned into biofuel.
“It’s important to Simon that we do what we can to be as sustainable as possible,” he added.
Between stunning canapes made with fresh farm produce, John and Liam continued taking us on a tour across the farm, leading us from flowerbed to polytunnel and explaining the complex way in which every crop is cared for organically.
To avoid needing to ship in lemons, limes and other fruits that are hard to grow in typical British weather conditions, the team has adapted by using herbs that give off similar flavour profiles and scents. For example, when stimulated, pineapple sage leaves give off a scent similar to that of Lilt, which makes it a moreish garnish in cocktails.
Every element of the farm is carefully thought out to be as sustainable and eco-friendly as possible, with John’s years of farming knowledge extending to understanding astrological changes that can affect the amount of water and nutrients a plant needs.
Certain plants and herbs have even been introduced to attract certain rare species of birds back into the vicinity that keep pests at bay, whilst chickens on the farm play a vital role in not only producing eggs for the restaurants, but also for digging and turning over soil.
After the chickens have done their part, they’re moved into another area of the fields and the process starts again. The soil where the chickens previously were is then treated via microbial weed control and left for a sufficient amount of time before being used again.
It’s a more time consuming and precarious method, but one that focuses on sustainability and creates far less detriment to the earth and soil.
I found it fascinating listening to John and Liam talk with clear enthusiasm for what they were able to do with this carefully conserved patch of land, and how much they enjoyed experimenting with introducing new species of plants into the area.
I could’ve listened and asked questions for hours, but dinner was almost ready and the scent of well-seasoned Caledonian Rose potatoes that had been slowly roasting on an open fire all morning had my stomach rumbling. It was time to take our seats and see just what fabulous produce can be created with the tender loving care shown by the Our Farm team.
We took our seats at the award-winning outdoor dining area before Liam treated us to an incredible hearty lunch with ingredients picked fresh just moments before.
The sun even decided to make an appearance and the air filled with birdsong. It felt like being in a Disney movie, looking out to the distance and seeing nothing but greenery, breathing in the fresh air and basking in Cumbria’s rolling hills. A blissful moment that I won't forget in a hurry.
Brought to the table just moments after leaving the heat of the barbecue, we enjoyed warm einkorn sourdough with toasted hay butter before tucking into an array of seasonal produce served family-style: Duncan cabbage and Florence fennel; Farm Kale and chard with garlic and chilli oil; Fermented Cobra and Monte Gusto beans in a fermented bean salsa; purple sprouting broccoli and Lisbon onion oil, topped with roasted hazelnut shards; melt-in-the-mouth Heritage short rib of beef glazed in a fermented runner bean sauce; and the most beautiful, fluffy-yet-crispy Caledonian Rose potatoes seasoned with summer savoury salt.
You're probably thinking; But Harley, all good roast dinners need some form of jus or gravy? Chef Liam was on it, presenting beef sauce with ramson oil and pickled ramson sauce served in a teapot, ready to spill lashings over our dinners with. Absolutely divine.
Finishing off the delectable meal with something sweet, Liam then brought us each over a thick-cut slab of woodruff infused basque cheesecake, served with Autumn treasure, pickled raspberries and begonia. I was in heaven.
Leaving with full bellies, a stronger understanding and true appreciation for the absolute craftsmanship that goes into the dishes at Simon Rogan’s restaurants, we returned to Manchester with our own snipping of Chinese Mahogany (a plant which tastes just like beef Monster Munch) and some mustard seeds, encouraging us to take what we’ve learned and grow with the same considerate gusto that the team at Our Farm have.
Interested in visiting for yourself? Here’s what you can expect from a trip to Our Farm.
It’s exciting to know that produce grown at Our Farm is used at The Mezz Restaurant, AO Arena’s stylish dining experience for members, meaning you can try Farmer John’s hard work for yourselves right here in Manchester. A meal at The Mezz is the perfect pairing for making those unforgettable arena moments that bit more special.
Click here to find out more about The Mezz restaurant.
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