A NIGHT at the Opera? Sì Sì! The conductor? Dario Barbato, a Roman whose repertoire extends far beyond the Italian classics he has grown up with during a globetrotting career.
This is a real charmer from its classic nose of rose petals and lychees through to its intense spicy fruit
We are not talking arias or divas, though, but wine. It’s a chilly evening in Chester and under the ski-heaters we are sipping a range of reds and whites together on the terrace of the city’s spectacular new restaurant arrival, the Opera Grill.
Theatrical certainly, but there’s no musical theme to its history; once a Methodist church, in wartime wings for Spitfires were built here. Tonight this white, classically pillared Grade II-listed building soars out of the Deva darkness.
Enter through the portico and equally monumental is the full height wine boutique inside – Dario’s pride and joy. He was cannily hired by owners Individual Restaurants (Piccolino, Restaurant Bar Grill and more) to make their wine lists hit the high notes. That he is succeeding was immediately obvious at the beautifully revamped flagship Caffe Grande Piccolino in central Manchester.
So too with Opera Grill’s quite different wine offering the feeling is the same – from the wines by the glass (more care taken here than in many rivals) to the special bottles at the top end of the ‘Masterpieces’ section of the list.
But it is two very different, very individual whites in the middle ground we sample that reveal its individuality.
Both the Rag & Bone Riesling 2015 (£32 a bottle) and Albourne Estate White Pinot Noir 2014 (£53) are tailor-made to handle chef Kevin Wigglesworth’s spicy, globally-influenced food prominent on the menu alongside grill classics from the charcoal grill and the spectacular wood-fired oven.
The former comes from South Australia’s Eden Valley, with typical petrol on the nose (that’s a good thing) and very Oz-like lime on the palate, the fresh acidity tempered by just a hint of sweetness. Better than the reds we tried, it held its won against chilli-laced Wagyu beef skewers.
White Pinot Noir is new to me and reassuringly there is the merest blush to the Albourne, made from red Pinot Noir grapes which were hand picked and whole-bunch pressed. It comes from an innovative boutique winery on the Sussex Downs. £53 may be the most you’ve ever spent on an English wine (and I applaud Dario’s bravery in stocking it), but it offers a delicate cherryish nose, minerality and fruit that opens out beguilingly in the glass. Perfect for the ceviche or teradito in your life.
Ditto the Cave de Turckheim’s Gewurztraminer Reserve 2013 (£36). Alsace wines can be a hard sell, too, but the is a real charmer from its classic nose of rose petals and lychees through to its intense spicy fruit. Perfect to tackle strong menu flavours such as anchovy butter, miso mayonnaise, ginger ponzu and chilli-spiked kimchi.
The staff are well-drilled about the hidden depths of the wine list – feel free to ask for advice – but if you’re happy to stick to the wine by the glass selection then this too is a cut above. Best value among the whites is the Macabeo Borsao, Campo de Borja (£4.75 175ml; £6.75 250ml), while at the same price another of Spain’s unsung regions provides my red recommendation – Monastrell Shiraz El Tesoro from Jumilla.
Opera Grill, Pepper Street, Chester CH1 1DF (opposite the Chester Piccolino).
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