3 AA Rosette chef Ernst van Zyl of The Lord Clyde will embark on a rare foray into Manchester city centre

IT’S exactly four years since Gordo was damning about the Chef’s Dinner Menu at Etrop Grange, raising the hackles of some foodies by lamenting that the smoking procedure for his mallard ‘enveloped the plate like a damp dog basket’ and that a broccoli jelly petit four 'smelled of fart'.

Flash forward to the summer of 2014 and the same chef, Ernst van Zyl, now running his own gastropub, the Lord Clyde in the Cheshire hamlet of Kerridge, got a rave review from Confidential editor Jonathan Schofield. With this caveat for the South African trained in the kitchens of Noma, Fat Duck and L’Enclume: “van Zyl is clearly a creative genius. But he needs direction, someone he respects who can tell him how to focus his inspiration, rationalise it.”

You can make your own mind up at the Lord Clyde by negotiating (alongside the normal a la carte) a range of bespoke tasting menus that cost up to £165 a head. We’d suggest you take advantage of a rare van Zyl foray into Manchester city centre, paying just £37 for four intriguing courses. Inca Pop-ups have lured him to Koffee Pot in the Northern Quarter for one night only (Monday, February 27).

It starts with treacle-cured Danebridge trout, salsify, pineapple and soy sauce, followed by purple sprouting broccoli, shallot, hazelnut and creme fraiche, then a main of duck breast, salt-baked celeriac, polenta and blood orange with rhubarb and beetroot to conclude.

Koffee Pot, 84-86 Oldham St, Manchester M4 1LE. Tel: 0161 236 8918. Monday 27 February. Meal starts 7pm. Licensed bar. Ticket here or contact Claire at 07881 787744

Ernst Van Zyl Lord Clyde
Chef Ernst van Zyl