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REMEMBER when tapas in the UK meant a microwaved dish of patatas bravas and a saucer of just-defrosted whitebait? Even back then, we couldn't get enough of it. And now that Spanish cooking is being done properly over here, tapas has become this year's food thing (and last year's, and probably next year's as well).
These dainty pastries look innocent enough but don't be fooled. One bite and bam – taste explosion.
One notable recent opening is Lunya which launched its Manchester restaurant in Barton Arcade last summer. Its original Liverpool restaurant had already chalked up some impressive accolades, including the Good Food Guide's 'Readers' Restaurant of the Year for the North West 2015'. Its strength is in the owners' obvious passion for Catalan food. The husband and wife team visit the region several times a year to discover new ingredients and find menu inspiration, and you get a sense that Lunya is a real labour of love for them.
So although you can order patatas bravas if you like, there are many more exciting dishes to catch your eye. Their lunchtime tapas deal – three dishes and sourdough bread for £14.95 – is a great way to explore the exhilarating menu for a very reasonable price. It's available Sunday to Friday from noon-5pm. Get ready for a food adventure.
Our first dish was Cabrales and Asturian cider pate. These dainty pastries looked innocent enough but don't be fooled. One bite and bam – taste explosion. Cabrales is the strongest cheese in the world so they packed a real punch. The sweet balsamic vinegar dressing set off the savoury flavours nicely. One of us loved these, the other definitely didn't. At least we didn't have to fight over them.
The Morcilla wasn't so easy to share – we both named it our overall favourite. Morcilla is black pudding. Here it was rolled in cornflakes and deep fried to give it a crispy shell while retaining the tender, soft centre. The flavours were as complex as the textures: the morcilla was drizzled with orange and honey syrup and pomegranate molasses, so we got a lovely, delicate sweetness on top of the satisfyingly rich, meaty taste. A real stand-out dish.
After these two heart-racing options, we were ready for a quieter contrast, and found it in the Padron Peppers. This was a simple plate of fried baby green peppers sprinkled with flakes of Galician sea salt. It showed that Lunya can do understated just as well as they do dramatic.
Tender and mild, the peppers were very snackable. But be warned, every one in ten padron pepper is eye-wateringly hot, so eating them has a feel of Russian Roulette about it. There were no casualties at our table, thankfully.
Staying with vegetables, the Woodland Mushrooms were another contender for best dish of the meal. Served with strips of green asparagus and Serrano ham, they were earthy and bold with a char grill taste. This was a rustic dish that demonstrated how Catalan cooking is as much about the mountains as the sea.
The final two dishes were UK tapas staples but were far from mediocre in their execution. The Calamari was encased in a wonderfully light beer batter that didn't eclipse the squid inside. Likewise, the accompanying allioli was restrained. It complemented the calamari rather than knocked it out of the water.
The Albondigas (meatballs) were equally simple and good. A mix of pork and beef, they had a smoky flavour and a juicy texture, and sat in a rich, comforting tomato sauce.
Lunya isn't afraid to experiment in the spirit of Barcelona's boundary-pushing tapas bars, but it does the classics like these very well too. This makes it perfect for group gatherings where not everyone wants to be adventurous in their choices. The easy-going atmosphere suits all-comers too, and is perfect for a relaxed lunch.
The service was fast – you could do this deal in your lunch hour. But with dishes this good, it was pleasant to savour the food and enjoy the surroundings. Lunya has views of bustling Deansgate from one side, and the beautiful balconies of Barton Arcade from the other. Both were overshadowed by the delights on the table.
Lunya's lunchtime tapas menu is three tapas and home-made sourdough bread for £14.95. It is available from noon to 5pm, Sunday to Friday (excluding bank holidays and special events).
