Promotion
ITR IS proving to be among the most impressive of the recent flood of foodie start ups. The owners Srini and Suresh have a real enthusiasm, based it would seem on real knowledge of what works. See Jonathan Schofield's review here.
This is not some delicate summer flower but a real triffid
For starters, the fit out of the interior means that you quickly forget the bland exterior: the reconstituted pallets that make the bar, the scaffolding-pipe stools and chairs, the murals and decorations take you right out of Manchester.
The wine list also takes you out of the North West. We were here to taste the Indian wines and whiskies, all from near Bengaluru – or Bangalore – in the Karnataka province. Wines first. They are on a separate page in the drinks menu, coming after a mix of all the usual European and southern hemisphere suspects.
Srini and Suresh have sourced the five Indian wines from the Grover estate, who, with the help of Michel Rolland, kickstarted things in 1998. The bottles are decorated with Silver and Commended Decanter stickers (Asia Region), and all have snazzy labels showcasing modern Indian artists. The wines should have pride of place in the menu...
A Cabernet Shiraz, a Viognier, a Sauvignon blanc and a Rosé are all £20 a bottle or £4.95 a glass. The La Réserve (Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz) is £30 for the bottle only. The first of these is a deep, deep plum in colour, cassis-y in taste, with a herby touch and very soft tannins.
The Viognier, a grape which can be a bit twee, is lovely – peach and mango flavours, with a nice sharpness (though the label would have it as 'spiced pears and apricot') and an upfront freshness which is rather gorgeous. This goes perfectly with the Paani Puri – the puffed pastry hollows that you fill with minted water and then feel burst in your mouth.
The Sauvignon is grassy and, oddly, has hints of coffee hanging about. Although my companions looked at me rather quizzically at this description. The apple and citrus stands up well to the Chicken Lollypops and their ITR marinade.
The Rosé is 100% Shiraz and it shows. This is not some delicate summer flower but a real triffid – it has a real whomp to it and will stand up to most things on the menu, although its berryness and cherryness has a surprisingly light finish.
The La Réserve is a complex, blueberry-hued wine that could maybe do with a couple more years (it is 2014), but is still an interesting and satisfying glass.
Although the Grover wines were an Indian first, I've tried, and enjoyed, the Amrut whisky before. The single malt 'nurtured by waters from the Great Himalayas' (take that Laphroaig! ... although isn't that mountain range a thousand or so miles north?), is a slightly sweet, liquorice/cream toffee affair, that would actually work quite well as an aperitif.
The Amrut Fusion on the other hand – a mix of Scottish and Indian barley – is bottled at 50% (ten more than the single malt), and has a deceptively anonymous nose. The first sip is wonderful – as the label says – it has a 'massive delivery'. Which made me laugh quite a lot. Woody and peaty, the dram has a very impressive cumulative power. If that sort of whisky is not to your taste, adding a little water turns its somewhat dry palate into a luscious creamy affair. A perfect end to any meal.
Indian Tiffin Room, Isabella Banks Street, First Street, Manchester M15 4RL
Book your table online or call 0161 410 0340
